It would be criminal not to include Supreme on this list. With a newfound spotlight, its meteoric rise to streetwear (and fashion) dominance, it’s easy to overlook just how long Supreme has been at the top of pyramid. Founded in 1994 by James Jebbia at 274 Lafayette Street in New York City, Supreme’s Box Logo has become a global symbol for its uniquely New York City-brand of cool.

It’s hard to know where to start when it comes to Supreme. In its 25 years, it’s collaborated with names like BAPE, Comme des Garçons, Louis Vuitton, Nike, The North Face, Stone Island, Undercover, Visvim and WTAPS. It’s worked with celebrities from all disciplines, ranging from Nas and Raekwon, to Kate Moss and Kermit the Frog. Its weekly drop cadence has literally shifted the way brands up and down the fashion spectrum have chosen to release their products, aiming to cash in on Supreme’s clear successes. Supreme’s own reach across streetwear isn’t just confined to its own product; an unofficial incubator for some of the coolest people across art and fashion today, many of the brands leading the conversation in the wider streetwear industry are directly or indirectly connected to Supreme.

As the clearest example of streetwear success worldwide, each new season (not to mention each mysterious weekly drop) is greeted with an immense amount of discussion and dissection among detractors and fans alike. Love it or hate it, one thing is clear: If you know anything about streetwear, you know about Supreme.

While officially founded as a brand by Lev Tanju in 2009, Palace’s roots extend back a bit further. An abridged reference to the “Palace Wayward Boys Choir,” the ragtag skate crew in which Tanju was a member, the brand coalesced around a small group of tight-knit London skaters—not to mention the now-iconic Fergus Purcell-designed Tri-Ferg logo. The brand’s skate videos, known for their vintage VHS aesthetic, helped cement Palace’s authenticity and establish it among a global audience.

While Palace has certain adjacencies with Supreme (Palace rider Lucien Clarke has modeled Supreme lookbooks in the past), its designs, references and aesthetics are distinctly British. This is best seen in its football (soccer)-adjacent Umbro and adidas collabs and seasonal tracksuit offerings; the latter is a staple of every Palace collection.

With its unique voice (the nonsensical product descriptions on the brand’s online webshop are allegedly written by Tanju himself) and clear perspective, Palace stands apart on the global streetwear stage.

Founded by NIGO (born Tomoaki Nagao) in 1993, BAPE was born out of the “Urahara” Movement (short for “Ura-Harajuku,” an area known—at the time—for a pioneering selection of bohemian boutiques), embodying the culture’s blend of hip-hop, punk and pop culture influences. Set in that region of Tokyo, BAPE grew out of NOWHERE, a small shop shared with Undercover designer Jun Takahashi. Many of NIGO’s contemporaries, Tetsu Nishiyama of WTAPS, Shin Takazawa of Neighborhood, Sk8thing and his mentor, Hiroshi Fujiwara, still shape the current streetwear landscape today.

BAPE is a shortened version of the Japanese phrase “A bathing ape in lukewarm water,” which denotes someone who overindulges; given NIGO’s fascination with consumerism and pop culture, this name is fairly fitting. While the product began with fairly standard streetwear fare—T-shirts especially—the brand exploded by the time NIGO crossed paths with Pharrell, who helped expose the brand to a global audience, and make it a signature of hip-hop style in the mid to late-2000s. By that point, BAPE had become nothing short of a lifestyle brand, producing apparel, its own brand of sneakers, homegoods, jewelry and toys.

Even with NIGO no longer at the brand, BAPE’s designs have crossed across style spectrums, with its iconic camo prints becoming an iconic identifier for BAPE-branded products and collaborations. When it comes to streetwear, you can’t chart its history without acknowledging BAPE.

It’s very simple: before BAPE, before Supreme, there was Stüssy. Founded by Shawn Stussy and Frank Sinatra Jr. (no relation) in 1980, Stüssy is directly responsible for shaping “streetwear” as we understand it today. The brand began with Shawn Stussy’s own history designing and shaping surfboards out in southern California, taking off once the surfer added his graffiti-style tag to a few T-shirts, hanging them alongside his boards at a trade show in the early-’80s. After a few successful product designs, Stussy linked with Sinatra Jr.—someone with professional financial experience—in 1984 to establish a full-fledged fashion line. By 1986 the pair had registered the company’s trademark.

While hip-hop and punk has influenced and continues to influence all of the brands on this list in one way or another, Stüssy’s beginnings in the mid-’80s allowed it to be at the forefront of that fusion, finding its footing at the same time as the NYC graffiti scene and the emergence of sampling in hip-hop.

Sampling is an interesting concept to consider when looking at Stüssy. Selling its gear in Europe and, more importantly, in Asia by the end of the ’80s and into the early-’90s, other cities were able to adopt Stüssy product and rework it to fit their own native style tribes. This cross-pollination of global fans helped spawn the International Stüssy Tribe; a collective of Stüssy fans and tastemakers, its alumnus include the ever-influential Hiroshi Fujiwara. By 1991, the year of the first Tribe gathering, eventual Supreme founder James Jebbia was linked to the brand, opening a standalone Stüssy store in SoHo near his other venture—iconic ‘90s streetwear mecca Union. Eddie Cruz, inevitable founder of Undefeated, helped open the Stüssy store within Union on La Brea Avenue in Los Angeles in 1992.

Even though Shawn Stussy left his namesake brand in 1996, leaving the brand in a wayward state throughout the late-’90s and 2000s, it has managed to stand the test of time as a beacon of the potential for streetwear. While it’s taken a backseat to brands like Supreme and Palace in terms of sheer hype, a string of thoughtful sneaker collabs (Stüssy’s connection to Nike product is decades-old) and well-designed seasonal collections make it far greater than its widely-available graphic tees and hats—products that saturated the market thanks to explosive growth in the ’80s and ’90s. There’s a strong chance you’ve bumped into Stüssy at a store near you, but don’t let yourself be fooled: Stüssy is just as relevant as it was over almost 40 years ago.

Off-White is a tricky choice for this list. Floating somewhere between a streetwear brand and a luxury house, Off-White represents a thoroughly modern take on how we’re defining both “streetwear” and “luxury.” Helmed by Virgil Abloh, the multi-disciplinarian began his career with connections to fellow Chicago native Kanye West, ultimately launching Off-White in 2012 (the brand itself is an evolution of his smaller Pyrex Vision brand). Since then, Off-White has excelled at creating coveted takes on streetwear staples—hoodies, graphic tees, hats—tapping into Abloh’s notoriously high taste level and library of cultural references. Sure, the canvas may be consumer-facing, but the fact that Abloh holds runway shows for both his men’s and women’s lines makes it easy to see Off-White sitting (and being worn) alongside luxury names like Balenciaga and Gucci.

Off-White fandom hit a fever pitch in 2017 with the announcement of “The Ten”: A collaboration between Virgil Abloh and Nike, Abloh exposed, reexamined and reworked 10 classic Nike silhouettes. While the collaboration didn’t involve Off-White directly, it contained many motifs and designs which are commonly found on several Off-White pieces since the brand’s inception. The sneaker collaboration was such a success, Nike would go on to release several more sneakers in conjunction with Abloh, all of which sell out within seconds and fetch high prices in the aftermarket.

Even after Abloh ascended to helm menswear at Louis Vuitton, he has continued to work and shape Off-White alongside his new position, using Off-White as a more contemporary alternative to the work he does at a definitive traditional luxury maison. If anything, it’s fitting that Abloh continues to straddle the line between streetwear and luxury—when it comes to Off-White, he’s been doing it for the better part of a decade.

Brendon Babenzien—the one-time design director of...you guessed it, Supreme—has roots that stretch all the way back into the ’90s, studying and shaping the modern streetwear space since his days at Don Busweiler’s Pervert and Miami’s Animal Farm storefront. Attached to Supreme for several years, there’s no way we’d have the Supreme we have today without Babenzien’s design influence. As seen in correspondence and documents from the early Supreme days, Babenzien was actively working on cut-and-sew and reproduction items; it’s this long term focus on apparel beyond T-shirts and hoodies that has helped establish Supreme as an outlier when compared to its streetwear contemporaries. That focus on apparel (and production) carried well into how Babenzien has shaped Noah.

Initially founded in 2005 and revived in 2015, it’s clear that Babenzien’s personal style and life have directly defined Noah’s aesthetic. Colloquially referred to by insiders and fans “streetwear for grown-ups,” Noah has its fair share of branded hoodies and T-shirts, but stands apart thanks to its rugby shirts, loafers, corduroy trousers, shirting and varied outerwear—like peacoats. If it sounds like Noah has a prep influence—that’s because it does. Of course its aesthetic library is as varied as New York City itself, but the product offering certainly skews more mature. With motifs that reflect rowing, track and field and surfing, it’s not surprising to discover that Babenzien grew up on Long Island.

The maturity also applies to the transparency Noah provides to its customers, combining cultural commentary on its blog with thoughtful breakdowns of how it prices its products (and how much the pieces cost to produce). All of this dovetails into everything Noah stocks; it’s a lot easier to justify a premium priced hoodie, T-shirt or jacket when the brand selling it is completely honest with how that product traveled from the manufacturer to the store shelf.

Eddie Cruz may have founded Undefeated in Los Angeles back in 2002, but his streetwear pedigree goes all the way back to his days as a NYC shop employee at the James Jebbia-helmed Union. When Jebbia pivoted to focus on his work with Stüssy, Cruz stepped in to fill the void, ultimately bringing his talents to Los Angeles to both assist in opening a new Stüssy outpost and ultimately, Undefeated. Working with art director James Bond, the store become a premier destination in the up-and-coming Los Angeles streetwear scene.

Initially a retailer selling other brands, Undefeated quickly launched a namesake line of apparel shortly after opening. Identified by its “five strike” logo, designed by Adam Levite, Undefeated established itself quickly as a global player, collaborating with other streetwear titans like BAPE.

Of course, Undefeated began with a clear focus on hype sneaker releases, ultimately becoming a sneaker collaborator in its own right. Its list of sneaker design partners includes major players like adidas, Nike and Jordan Brand; its MA-1 jacket-inspired Jordan IV is still considered one of the most important Jordan IV silhouettes ever released. Its Kobe 1 Protro “Flight Jacket” drop stands as one of the rarest sneakers on the resell market today.

A more mature look at streetwear, Teddy Santis’ Aimé Leon Dore blends streetwear signatures, like sport and hip-hop, with upscale aesthetic influences, with inspiration spanning from prep and art to lavish European holidays on the Mediterranean. Founded in 2014, Queens-native Santis is clearly influenced by his hometown, tapping into NYC style signatures like hoodies paired with topcoats, Ralph Lauren-influenced rugby shirts, polos and oxfords styled with military surplus-inspired outerwear.
While its unique perspective on modern streetwear means that its prices hit higher than some of the other labels on this list, a focus on construction and fabric give Aimé Leon Dore its “grown up” feel. In the summer, its camp collar shirts rival any luxury house, and its sweats (hoodies, sweatpants and even fluffy fleeces) have emerged as an obvious signature—especially in Fall/Winter collections.

Aimé Leon Dore isn’t just working on apparel either; like many of the labels on this list, the brand has its own share of sneaker collaborations. Outside of producing its own Air Force 1-inspired Q14 sneaker, Aimé Leon Dore has worked with upscale sneaker label Filling Pieces, as well as Puma and—more recently—New Balance. With a custom take on the classic New Balance 997, the sneakers (and the accompanying apparel collection) were a reminder that—even in the crowded world of NYC streetwear—Aimé Leon Dore can’t be slept on.

Helmed by former Supreme brand director Angelo Baque, Awake NY has quietly and methodically established itself as one of streetwear’s brightest new stars. Awake NY began as far back as 2012, but was largely Japan-exclusive until around 2018. While the brand does create seasonal collections—featuring streetwear classics like caps and T-shirts—alongside cut-and-sew, its reputation has been bolstered by its stances on political and cultural issues. Celebrating the blend of cultures and influences that shape New York City itself, it’s not surprising to find Awake NY creating gear honoring Black History Month or T-shirts helping Latin American immigrants and critiquing the Trump administration’s immigration policies.

The brand’s activism is accented by its string of highly-hyped product, including a summer 2019 asics collaboration. With a set of metallic-accented Gel-Kayano 5 sneakers paired with a matching hoodie and T-shirt, it stands as Awake NY’s notable foray into the world of sneaker collaborations. With clear ties to the Dover Street Market family and Union Los Angeles, Awake NY holds steady as the “coolest guy you know’s favorite streetwear label.”

It takes a lot for a skate brand to stand out these days. With stiff competition in New York (via Supreme) and London (via Palace), it’s hard to imagine that a small brand based in Montreal would become a cult player in the streetwear scene. Properly established in 2009, thanks to the launch of The Dimestore Video, the brand’s roots extend all the way back to 2005 with a bunch of friends bonding amongst the already tight-knit Montreal skate scene.

While the brand’s product offering is a little less varied than its contemporaries Palace and Supreme, in recent years Dime has branched out into producing a few cut-and-sew pieces, including a “Dime Tec” waterproof shell, a polar fleece tracksuit and oxford shirts. Its classic logo—a clear send-up of the serif-type Dior logo—is only one of the brand’s many logo flips; tapping into things like the Shrek franchise, Nike’s Air More Uptempo sneaker silhouette or classic video game Doom, it’s always worth seeing how Dime will rework its name every season.

Stocked at a variety of top-tier retailers—including Dover Street Market—Dime’s influence outside of Montreal (where it also has its own shop) is nothing to laugh at...unlike the many pop culture references that appear on its many tees and hoodies.

Cynthia Lu, Pharrell’s longtime assistant, established Cactus Plant Flea Market in early 2015. When Pharrell was first seen rocking the brand, it was assumed he was the creator, but the public eventually learned of Lu and her role at the helm after a sly shoutout during Pharrell’s CFDA Fashion Icon award acceptance speech.

The power of Pharell’s cosign, along with frequent sightings of the brand on Skateboard P’s close friends—including NIGO and A$AP Rocky—helped Cactus Plant Flea Market quickly capture the Instagram feeds and hearts of the fashion zeitgeist. T-shirts, hoodies, sweats and hats with a distinctly DIY aesthetic, adorned with smiley faces, puff print, and botanical themes, are core to the brand's offering, and sizes are hand-embroidered on the inside of each garment (at least for the items put out exclusively Cactus Plant Flea Market). Rugs, boxer briefs, and statement jackets are also key pieces, especially the Cowboy pullover.

Like many of the other names on this list, Cactus Plant Flea Market’s success has led to a slew of highly anticipated collaborations. The brand has worked with labels like Human Made, Stussy, Anti Social Social Club and Marc Jacobs, on top of personalities like Kanye West, Kid Cudi, The Rolling Stones, A$AP Mob and Lil Wayne.

Even still, no collaboration matches its co-branded Nike releases. Cactus Plant Flea Market has worked with the Swoosh on a few occasions now: adding Lu’s signature touch to the Nike Vapormax, retooling the Air Force 1 with Uptempo-style lettering and a Nike ID-style Blazer drop, in addition to a capsule clothing collection. With all of the excitement coming from the brand, Cactus Plant Flea Market should be a familiar name at this point.

Kyle Ng and Ed Davs launched Brain Dead in 2014 in Los Angeles. The brand has come to be recognized for its graphic-heavy items influenced by post-punk, underground comics and skateboarding, which are a translation of Ng and Davis’ low-brow-meets-high-brow tastes onto various clothing and other wares. Seemingly, only Brain Dead could execute corduroy jackets with leopard-print panels and neon carpenter pants so effortlessly.

Of course, you will find an assortment of tees, hoodies, bottoms and other graphic-laden wardrobe basics in the brand’s seasonal collections. However, like any major streetwear label worth its salt, it’s the well-executed variety of accessories and miscellaneous items (rugs, ceramics, toys, and even skincare products, to name just a few) that place Brain Dead ahead of the pack. Collaborations with The North Face, A.P.C. and Carhartt have only cemented Brain Dead as a major player in today’s streetwear scene. It’s certainly a favorite of ours at Grailed.

Jerry Lorenzo has always done things his way when it comes to building his fashion empire. Ever since launching his flagship Fear of God brand in 2013, Lorenzo’s high-end take on athleisure and grunge have garnered serious praise and celebrity cosigns—including Kanye West and Justin Bieber—all while producing its garments completely in house in Los Angeles and releasing on its own schedule.

In 2015, Lorenzo teamed up with retailer PacSun to establish F.O.G., a more affordable line that offered Fear of God staples (as well as massively popular Vans collaborations) at a fraction of the main brand’s cost, achieved by moving production overseas. This offering was updated in 2017 with the creation of Fear of God Essentials, or Essentials, which provides foundational wardrobe pieces while maintaining the mainline Fear of God essence.

While Lorenzo stresses that Essentials remains separate from Fear of God, the lower-priced label features many classic Fear of God elements, such as slouchy hoodies and tapered drawstring pants. Denim, boxy tees, and coaches jackets are also core Essentials items, and although more minimal in nature than Fear of God, the brand aesthetic is still defined by Lorenzo’s upbringing around his professional athlete father and blend of ’90s cultural influences. The quality is a noticeable step up from its F.O.G. predecessor, and Essentials pieces can still be spotted in NBA tunnels and celebrity street style shots like its mainline counterpart. Collaborative releases with Converse only add to the hype surrounding Essentials, and it should definitely be on your radar.

Founded in 2016 by Elijah Funk and Alix Ross, Los Angeles-based Online Ceramics is known for its trippy graphics and Grateful Dead bootleg tees. Large, detailed, psychedelia-inspired imagery boldly features across tees, sweatshirts and other apparel, all of which are hand printed and dyed by the duo in Los Angeles.

The brand’s name comes from Funk and Ross’ initial shared interest in ceramic sculptures dating back to their art school days in Ohio, when Ross bought the “online-ceramics” domain as a joke. When they began offering bootleg Grateful Dead tees on the site, the pair decided they loved how the Online Ceramics name bore no relation to the products they were selling, and it stuck.

The stripped back website reflects the brand’s humble beginnings and DIY ethos, but Online Ceramic’s popularity has ballooned in the years since. The brand counts John Mayer among its early supporters, is stocked at Union and Dover Street Market and—in addition to officially collaborating with Dead & Company—has a partnership with movie studio A24 to produce shirts for fan-favorite films including Midsommar and Uncut Gems. Online Ceramics graphics are certainly among the best in streetwear right now.

WTAPS (pronounced “Double Taps”) has been a major name in the Japanese streetwear scene for over twenty years. Tetsu Nishiyama—known simply as “Tet”—founded the label in 1996 as his second foray into design following FPAR, where WTAPS emerged among the famous Harajuku streetwear scene in the 1990s. The name derives from an early-1930s shorthand referencing two shots fired in quick succession at a target, which is fitting, as the brand is known for its heavy inspiration from military garments and the outdoors, blended with its founder’s varied influences and spirituality.

Tet’s fascination with all aspects of military garb, particularly production processes and materials, is reflected in WTAPS’ guiding principles. His personal design slogan (“Placing things where they should be”), “Miya-Daiku” (a philosophy based on highly skilled traditional Japanese carpenters known for making full use of each piece of wood) and Taoist teachings make up the brand’s unique design approach, allowing WTAPS to truly epitomize the subcultures it represents.

While WTAPS has built a dedicated following that embraces the lifestyle Tet embodies, the brand has gained a wider audience through collaborations with Supreme, Bape, Stussy, Carhartt WIP, Neighborhood, Undercover and Vans. The staying power of WTAPS over the years is hard to match in the rapidly evolving world of streetwear, and it’s definitely still a need-to-know brand in our books.