A spacious studio in the Tokyo neighborhood of Shibuya serves as WTAPS HQ. Strewn across the atelier is a massive display of collectables, many of them belonging to WTAPS founder Testsu Nishiyama—aka “TET." Among the items displayed are countless CDs, movies, magazines and books that serve as design references. Behind the racks of clothing samples, there is even a custom-tuned vintage motorcycle parked inside the studio. The contents of the workshop are a testament to the fanatical detail WTAPS embeds into each and every design.

As one of the leading labels to emerge from the Harajuku streetwear scene of the 1990s, WTAPS has evolved into one of the most recognized streetwear brands in Japan, boasting worldwide distribution, a slew of highly regarded collaborations and an impressive retail flagship. Known primarily for their carefully crafted takes on military garments, the label has built a cult following that embraces the lifestyle that Tetsu Nishiyama has created. There are few labels today that readily embrace the full range of military garb in such creative, consistent fashion, drawing from the history of military culture and combining it with authentic vintage production techniques.

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