Since its founding L.L. Bean has been a staple of American outdoor life. Like the brand’s “Maine Duck boot” and canvas tote bag, the flannel Chamois shirt has been an icon within the American wardrobe. Composed of a thick midweight flannel, it’s designed for the rigors of heavy wear, but simple enough to have an everyday appeal. Originally debuting in 1927, the L.L. Bean Chamois shirt has set the standard for many of the other flannel shirts to arrive afterwards—from its double flap pockets on the chest, to its open camp collar. As one of the more affordable—but reliable—flannels available, it’s a no-brainer.

You’ve heard of board shorts, but how about the Board Shirt? Earning its name from the Beach Boys’ now-iconic first album cover (the band originally went by “The Pendletones” before changing its name to The Beach Boys), this Pendleton flannel shirt has been a classic since it rose to popularity in 1960s California. While it was originally paired with board shorts on the beach and light denim during the height of its original popularity, it currently stands as one of the more classic items within Pendleton’s already stacked archive. Made with wool sourced from ranchers residing in the brand’s native Oregon state, the Board Shirt is an American classic, something that stretches from production to end product.

Famous for introducing buffalo check plaid back in 1850, Woolrich stands as a pillar of Americana—especially when it comes woven gear. While Woolrich gained some popularity among contemporary men in the early-2010s—thanks to the work of Mark McNairy and Daiki Suzuki under the (now-defunct) fashion-facing Woolrich Woolen Mills banner—its mainline has its own heritage offerings that defy the whims of whatever is trending at any given moment. Whether you’re looking for a three-season offering (built at what Woolrich calls “200 Weight”) or something designed to stand apart as a genuine winter weather-ready layer (landing at what Woolrich dubs “400 Weight”), the Woolrich flannel over shirt is as much an American staple today as it was roughly 170 years ago. It leaves us with only one question: What color of Buffalo Check is best?

While Engineered Garments reigns as one of the best known labels under the Nepenthes umbrella, it’s Keizo Shimizu’s Needles brand that has created a cult following—thanks in large part to this offbeat flannel shirt. Earning its name from the seven cuts of shirting that are sewn together to make a new shirt, this reconstructed flannel is as unconventional as it looks. While its bohemian look is unmistakable to the trained eye, it’s important to no two 7 Cut flannel is exactly alike. With varying lengths on the sleeves and body strips, the fit can be difficult to nail down; when buying a 7 Cut flannel, consider going on the larger side if sleeve length is a primary concern—even though the body should run true-to-size.

If there’s one person who embodies the fashion world today, it’s Virgil Abloh. While the globe-trotting multi-hyphenate is making waves at Louis Vuitton, it’s hard to ignore the fashion label that helped propel his profile into the stratosphere: Off-White. A symbol of today’s blend of streetwear influences and high fashion design, Off-White has been serving up flannels plastered with its [diagonal lines and arrow-laden iconography](grailed.com/drycleanonly/off-white-graphic-design-history) since the brand’s earliest iterations. There’s multiple flannel shirts within Off-White’s wider canon of collections, with major differences being the graphics and their placements. While there’s no denying that Off-White’s penchant for bold, in-your-face graphics makes it one of the more divisive brands on the list, there’s no refuting the simple fact that anything and everything Abloh touches turns to well-hyped gold.

A contemporary of Virgil Abloh and Kanye West, Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo reigns as one of the most desirable brands at the intersection of streetwear and high fashion. While Lorenzo’s label has recently earned plaudits for a series of hyped-up Nikes, Fear of God has remained relevant thanks to regular its appearances on the backs of several celebrities—not to mention an accessible diffusion line, aptly named FOG. Given that flannels have been a staple of Fear of God’s collections since the very outset, it stands to reason that its iterations aren’t to be skipped. While other labels create flannels to serve as simple shirts, Fear of God’s version stands apart for its oversized build, delivering a contemporary silhouette while allowing for room to serve as either a base layer or a top layer over hoodies or longsleeve T-shirts.

A beacon of Americana and classic workwear within the wider world of Ralph Lauren, RRL traditionally earns praise for its variety of classic denim. However, given that the subline’s name comes from Lauren’s Colorado ranch of the same name, it stands to reason that he’d make a classic version of the westernwear staple. Like most of Ralph Lauren’s iterations of menswear staples, the value lies in Lauren’s ability to marry distinctly American garments with a modern, upscale eye for finishes and details. RRL has produced several flannels since it was founded in 1993—all of which would stand alongside Lauren’s classic polo shirt as well worth the investment—but we prefer the heavier overshirt varieties. Slightly thicker than an average flannel shirt, this is the piece that will become your go-to throughout fall and winter.

Greg Lauren’s work is a far cry from the items produced by his well-known uncle Ralph. More experimental and bohemian, if Ralph Lauren embodies the well-moneyed East Coast elite (and the lifestyle they represent), Greg Lauren is emblematic of a more free-spirited West Coast; Greg Lauren’s wares have been produced mainly out of his Los Angeles studio since the brand’s start in 2011. Speaking of studios, the designer’s “Studio Shirt” has become an easily recognizable signature, often taking on various forms depending on the season and the materials used. While many feature flannel as the base or as part of the shirt, one Studio Shirt will usually look slightly different when compared to another. Usually featuring frayed hems, unique hardware and/or long barrel cuffs, the Studio Shirt—like Needles’ 7 Cut flannel shirt—is a unique take on the Americana staple.

If there’s one brand that embodies Japan’s approach to Americana in the modern age, it’s Visvim. From the mind of Hiroki Nakamura, Visvim strives to reproduce and reimagine American staples, ranging from blue jeans to the brand’s moccasin-inspired signature sneaker, the FBT. Like its Social Sculpture denim or its FBT sneaker, Visvim’s Elk flannel evokes a classical, almost frontier-inspired, aesthetic to its design; while it is made in Japan, the style’s thicker hardware and western-style chest pocket details give it a “made in America” feel. While Visvim is not the easiest brand for those on a budget, the attention to detail is something that makes each piece worth the investment.

It’s hard to think of a more quintessential “designer fashion” flannel shirt. Pioneered by the infamous Hedi Slimane, the designer injected his trademark vision of rock n’ roll style, Saint Laurent’s flannel feels rooted in the grunge roots of Kurt Cobain or the [downtown-savvy of The Strokes](grailed.com/drycleanonly/the-strokes-style-hedi-slimane). Even though Slimane has since left Saint Laurent to overhaul fellow Parisian label Celine, his vision continues to inspire the brand he left behind. While buying Saint Laurent’s take on the classic buffalo plaid flannel will not come cheap, it’s uniquely slim cut and designer pedigree will make it a piece worth bringing out time and again. Bonus points if you’re able to buy a flannel created during Slimane’s tenure.

Founded in 1999, Daiki Suzuki’s Engineered Garments is renowned for creating luxurious, modern takes on decades-old workwear staples. Predictably, then, a sturdy, classic work shirt is a staple of Engineered Garments’ offering, available season after season in different materials and colors.

More often than not, Engineered Garments’ collections—particularly the Fall/Winter ones—include a flannel version of said work shirt, available in myriad colors and patterns. It’s a robust shirt, with a reinforced button placket, triple stitching and soft, brushed cotton flannel. The work shirt also has two pockets, with one being longer and equipped with a small inner sleeve, making it perfect to store a pair of glasses or a pen.

On an aesthetic front, runoff chain-stitching and a curved hem are just two of elements that speak to Engineered Garments’ unique attention to detail and ability to elevate decades-old staples.

Beams was founded in 1976 and has evolved into one of the premier forces in Japanese fashion, with a number of diffusion lines, brick and mortar stores, and an important online presence. Beams Plus, launched in 1999, is one such diffusion line, with a focus on taking the so-called Golden Age of menswear circa 1940-1960 and repackaging it for the modern man.

While Beams Plus trades in staples, they do so in a way that’s always interesting.

With its flannel shirts, you can count on Beams Plus to use high-end flannel and you’re likely to find colors and patterns ranging from the classic to the more eclectic. The details vary, too: some might have two chest pockets, others only one, or even none; you might get a button-down collar, or you might not.

The one thing that’s certain is that, over the years, there’s bound to be a Beams Plus flannel that’s exactly the flannel you’re looking for.

3Sixteen is one of the shining examples of an independent brand finding success in New York City. Now more than 15 years old, 3Sixteen has become one of menswear’s preeminent denim brands. But it’s not just a denim brand.

Case in point: the Crosscut Flannel Shirt. First introduced in 2008, the Crosscut is one of the brand’s most popular pieces and, arguably, what they’re most known for, barring denim. What sets the Crosscut apart are the angled flaps on the chest pockets, and the crossed yoke—a detail that 3Sixteen would go on to use for a number of its tops.

It’s a sturdy flannel shirt, with just the right amount of unique detailing allowing it to strike the balance between statement shirt and everyday staple.