DESIGNER - Tatsuro Horikawa for Julius

SEASON - FW 14 (GLITCH;)

COLOR - BLACK

MATERIAL - COTTON, POLYURETHANE

ABOUT THE CREATOR

Unfortunately, Julius is another brand which I talk about with melancholy. It encompasses the somewhat dystopian and anarchist perspective on society which is part of Tatsuro Horikawa’s philosophy, embodied an artisanal approach to quality and construction, and later turned somewhat insipid.

Horikawa was born in the early 70’s, on an isolated island in southwest Japan named Kyushu. His exploration into the arts and fashion began when he moved to Tokyo during his early teens, and discovered a blooming industrial scene. 

Julius did not come to fruition until 2001, and the initial idea was to create audio and visual ensembles for other designers’ collections. However, Horikawa introduced garment construction in 2004 gaining traction and attention not only in Tokyo but from an international cult following. In 2008 Julius showed its collection on a Parisian runway for the first time. Through around 2015, Julius buyers always found a perfect balance between impeccable construction and avant garde designs, accompanied by a beautiful darkness meant eternally for villains.

Per Horikawa, “perfection is ugly …”.

ABOUT THE GARMENT

This jacket is the culmination of Julius’ tailoring apogee.

The patterns are complex, and create an incomparable shape. The raglan/double shoulders are incredibly structured and completely 3 dimensional (there is no way to make these lay flat), and create a formidable shape. Although the jacket is somewhat cropped, the patterns along the torso elongate the body, and compliment anything from a tee shirt to a kaftan. The sleeves en in a circular hem without buttons. The cuts along this jacket remind me of something otherworldly, like a sculpture by H.R. Giger himself.

The coated cotton fabric is incredibly thick, and despite the canvassed construction of the jacket, maintains a very directional shape despite the body’s position. Jet black, like the hallways of the self-destructing Nostromo spacecraft.

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