90's | Archive
Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme - Wool Stand Collar Cropped Vest

COLOR: Black
SIZE: 3 | M

Made in Japan

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【MATERIAL】
Main: 100% LAINE WOOL
Part1: 100% RAYON
Part1: 100% COTTON

【CONDITION】
S (9.5/10) | Great.

【MEASUREMENTS】
3 | M

Chest: 51 cm
Shoulder: 38 cm
Length: 61 cm

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【OVERVIEW】
This Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME black sleeveless vest jacket sits somewhere between a tailored waistcoat, a cropped outer vest, and a military-inspired stand-collar gilet. It retains the sharp structure of the menswear line while incorporating the brand’s understated deconstructed details.

The front body is made from black wool fabric with a refined woven texture and a subtle sheen. Rather than appearing as a flat matte black, the surface reveals soft tonal depth under the light. The cropped sleeveless silhouette has clean shoulders and a structured body, helping to define the upper torso with a sharp, composed, and tailored impression.

The most distinctive feature is the stand collar and multi-button front. Unlike a typical waistcoat with a low neckline, this piece wraps closer around the neck with a stand-collar construction, accented by a deep navy collar detail against the black body. The subtle blue-black contrast does not disrupt the overall dark palette; instead, it adds a quiet nuance when viewed up close. Combined with the closely arranged black buttons, the piece carries hints of military uniform, classic tailoring, and formal menswear. The snap-button tab detail at the upper front further adds dimension to the neckline, making this vest feel like a standalone statement piece rather than just an inner layer.

The interior features a white pinstripe lining, creating a clear contrast with the black exterior. When the front is slightly opened or the lining is revealed through movement, it adds a refined visual detail without making the piece feel overly decorative. The back is constructed from a lighter fabric and includes a traditional waistcoat-style adjustment strap, preserving classic tailoring language while creating a contrast in material and function between the front and back.

This piece works well with all-black tailoring, layered over shirts, worn under long coats, or styled as the core of a cropped layered look. Paired with wide trousers, long shirts, leather shoes, or boots, it creates a calm, restrained, and layered Yohji Yamamoto silhouette. It can also be worn on its own or over a simple inner layer to strengthen the presence of the upper body and give the overall styling a sharper, more collectible feel.

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