92SS | Archive
Yohji Yamamoto Femme - Wool Gabardine Cropped Tailored Jacket

COLOR: Black
SIZE: 2 | S

Made in Japan

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【MATERIAL】
Main: 100% LAINE WOOL | W/Gabardine
Lining: 100% CUPRO

【CONDITION】
S (9.5/10) | Great

【MEASUREMENTS】
2 | S

Chest: 54 cm
Shoulder: 46 cm
Sleeve Length: 58 cm
Length: 29.5 cm

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【OVERVIEW】
This is a wool gabardine cropped jacket from Yohji Yamamoto’s 1992 Spring/Summer women’s collection.
Cropped silhouettes appeared frequently throughout the 1992SS season and are considered one of the symbolic design elements of the collection, making this a rare archival piece.

The jacket compresses the structure of a traditional tailored blazer directly to below the chest, creating a strong and clean visual cut-off effect. While it retains classic tailoring details such as the notched lapel, single-button front, chest pocket, and decorative sleeve buttons, the dramatically shortened length transforms the formal language of a blazer into a more experimental and sculptural layering piece.

The most distinctive feature is its square-cut cropped hem, as if a full tailored jacket had been cleanly cut away, leaving only the upper structure and sleeve lines. Apart from the extreme cropped length, the jacket itself remains minimal and tailored, allowing the tension to come from the proportion rather than excessive decoration.

When worn, the cropped body creates a clear space between the chest and waist, making it especially suitable for layering with high-waisted trousers, long skirts, dresses, shirts, or elongated tops. Rather than functioning as a conventional jacket that fully covers the body, it works more like a styling layer designed to alter proportions and strengthen the upper-body silhouette, allowing for an effortless Yohji Yamamoto-style layered look.

The sleeves and shoulder line retain the completeness of a traditional tailored jacket, creating a sharp contrast with the extremely short body. Because the torso section is reduced, the arm line appears visually elongated, giving the piece the cold, avant-garde, and asymmetric sense of proportion often seen in early Yohji runway looks. Whether styled with wide trousers, long skirts, or a black dress, it creates a look that sits between formal tailoring, anti-formality, and body sculpture.

The fabric is Yohji Yamamoto’s classic black wool gabardine, with a fine twill texture and subtle low sheen. It is not overly soft or loose, but has enough structure and crispness to support the shoulder line and lapel shape clearly. This also gives the cropped construction a more complete and refined appearance, rather than making it feel casual or lightweight like an ordinary short jacket.

Its cropped design also makes it suitable for wear across different seasons. Overall, this is a highly recognizable Yohji Yamamoto archive piece — not a basic cropped jacket, but a structural fragment of classic tailoring that has been deconstructed and reinterpreted. It is especially suited for those who appreciate black layering, contrast between short and long proportions, and styling with a strong runway sensibility.

【TEXTILE】
・Made with the iconic textile (wool gabardine, commonly known as wrinkled gabardine) that has been used since the brand's founding. By applying a strong grain/wrinkle effect to the threads during the sorting stage, we create a unique texture and subtle luster that has supported the brand for over 40 years.
・The strength of GABA is that it can be worn anytime in spring, summer, fall, or winter due to its overwhelming durability, and you can freely enjoy set-up styles that span the seasons.

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