Archival Martin Margiela FW98 Sweater/Jumper | Miss Deanna Spiral Zip, Bias Cut
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RARE ARCHIVE Martin Margiela FW98 Spiral Zip Bias Cut Jumper Vest Miss Deanna Knit Flat Collection
Item Specifics (Key Details)
Feature Detail
Brand Martin Margiela (Maison Margiela)
Season Fall/Winter 1998 (FW98)
Collection "Flat" Collection (Part II)
Production Produced by MISS DEANNA
Material 90% Cotton, 10% Elastane Knit
Color Grey/Charcoal
Style Bias Cut Sweater/Vest/Jumper, Deconstructed
Closure Double-Ended Spiral Zipper (Double Zip)
Origin Made in Italy
Detailed Description for Collectors
ARCHIVAL MARTIN MARGIELA: FW98 SPIRAL ZIP JUMPER

This is an exceptionally rare and museum-worthy piece from Martin Margiela's seminal Fall-Winter 1998 collection, often referred to as the second part of his revolutionary "Flat" collection concept.

This grey cotton-blend knit embodies Margiela's most revered conceptual period, focusing on deconstruction and new dimensions of dressing.
Key Design & Construction Details

Conceptual Silhouette: The garment is cut on the bias, allowing the knit to drape and fall in a unique, asymmetrical way when worn, giving it an engineered, sculptural quality that changes with movement.

The Double-Ended Spiral Zipper: The defining feature is the diagonal, double-ended zipper that spirals across the front bodice. This allows the piece to be worn fully closed, partially zipped for an open shoulder or neckline, or completely unzipped and layered as a flat panel (a nod to the "Flat" concept).

Margiela Signature: The iconic four white stitches are present on the back of the neck, serving as the house's non-label mark.

The Miss Deanna Provenance

This piece features the highly sought-after Miss Deanna knitwear label ("PRODOTTO E DISTRIBUITO DA MISS DEANNA").

History: Legendary Italian knitwear artisan Deanna Ferretti Veroni (Miss Deanna) produced Margiela's most important and technically challenging knitwear from the 1990s through the early 2000s.

Significance: Her workshop possessed the unique technical expertise needed to execute Margiela's experimental designs, particularly the complex construction and finish required for pieces like this bias-cut sweater. The Miss Deanna label confirms the piece's unparalleled quality and archival significance.

The "Flat" Collection Context (FW98)

The Fall/Winter 1998 collection continued the conceptual exploration started in Spring/Summer 1998. The central idea was transforming flat, two-dimensional paper patterns into three-dimensional garments.

This piece is an extension of that idea: when laid flat, the garment has an unusual, distorted shape, but it snaps into a flattering, deconstructed form on the body due to the bias cut and the engineered tension of the zipper.

The collection was famously presented using marionettes/puppets instead of live models, further emphasizing the focus on the garment's pure form and construction over the body itself.

Condition and Measurements

Condition: Good vintage condition for age. No holes or major pulls. Minor pilling consistent with age of knit. Please examine all photos closely.

Material: 90% Cotton, 10% Elastane

Size Tag: L

Fit: Due to the bias cut and unconventional design, this piece has a fluid, deconstructed fit. Please refer to the measurements for guidance.

Measurement (Laid Flat, Unstretched) Detail
Length (Top of Shoulder to Hem) 20 inches
Pit-to-Pit (Unzipped) 16.5 inches
Sleeves Lenght 22 inches

Note: Since this is a conceptual piece, pit-to-pit and shoulder measurements are approximate due to the lack of traditional seams and the bias cut.
Seller Notes:

This is a true collector's item and an essential piece of fashion history from one of the most influential designers of the 20th century. All sales are final on archival items.