5K runway sample cotton/silk tobacco-brown trench, IT50, IT
Men's US M / EU 48-50 / 2•New
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Ultra-premium Dunhill cotton/silk blend trench coat with a MSRP of $5K+, which is at the upper end of the label’s luxury outerwear offerings.
During the highly regarded Mark Weston era, a renaissance for the label, Dunhill returned to heritage British tailoring albeit made with premium Italian fabrics. Two of his most acclaimed collections were FW21 and FW22, the almost certain provenance of this coat. These collections were noted for fluid, elegant garments often in medium-brown tones. The gun-metal grey tone, heavier weight, and squarer shape of the hardware narrows the production season down to FW21.
Made from an exceptionally lightweight gabardine with a smooth, soft hand, fluid drape, and subtle luster. It is likely a cotton/mulberry silk blend, which is much lighter than standard cotton trenches while retaining full structure.
Rich tobacco brown color with beautiful depth that recalls British aristocratic and vintage motoring attire. Darker and richer in person than in photos. The cover photo is the most accurate, color-wise, although even it is lighter than the coat’s true color.
This very functional garment features premium details:
—Streamlined belted trench silhouette
—Buttoning closure with a concealed placket
—Rear kick-pleat (or, vented inverted pleat) vent with concealed button
—Raglan sleeves with epaulettes
—Screened metal eyelets (ventilation holes) at the underarms
—Adjustable belt with metal eyelets
——-Note: there is a strip of fabric with a button on it to keep the belt in place, meaning that one need not knot the belt behind one’s back when not in use or worry about losing it. The belt has seven rows of stitches, which is two more than Burberry's highest-end offerings.
—Adjustable cuff straps
—Adjustable throat latch
—Horn buttons
—Two deep external pockets with branded snap buttons
—Two vertical internal pockets, each with a button closure
—Sturdy metal (likely brass) hardware
—Darts at the elbows for added comfort and structure
—Hanging loop
—Astonishing lightness. It packs down to the size of a medium-gauge sweater and weighs about the same, making it ideal for travel.
The epaulettes, belt and cuff straps are all removable, for those who prefer a cleaner, minimalistic look.
The cut is tailored and quite slim.
Signature Dunhill London label. No care, composition, country-of-manufacture or size tags present, consistent with Dunhill showroom/sample/runway pieces. The size is closest to an IT50, my size. It might be an IT52 though. Refer to the measurements. The sleeve measurement, taken from the collar on account of the Raglan-sleeve design, is 31.25”.
Almost certainly made in 🇮🇹.
Notes:
-Given the absence of internal tags other than the Weston-era Dunhill label, the above information is based not only on my own knowledge of this specific house and of luxury apparel in general but on multiple AI checks. I first uploaded my photos of the garment to ChatGPT. Next, I performed a series of tests (pinch test, fabric-roll test, scrunch test, weight test, light test) at ChatGPT’s request to determine the fabric composition, which the AI model had previously indicated as being either a cotton/silk blend or cotton/polyamide (nylon) blend. In the final analysis, ChatGPT determined the fabric to be “Approximately 80–85% cotton, 15–20% mulberry silk.” I suspected as much. It feels silken. Plus, I am well aware of Weston's penchant for mulberry silk.
-ChatGPT also determined the country of manufacture to be “almost certainly Italy,” noting that “Although not labeled, Dunhill Weston-era outerwear was typically made in:
—Italy (most common)
—Occasionally UK (rarer)
—Occasionally Portugal.”
-Based on the photos alone, ChatGPT concluded: “This is not standard Dunhill retail tier—it is part of their top runway-level outerwear program. Equivalent quality tier to:
—Loro Piana technical trench coats
—Saint Laurent runway trenches
—Hermès cotton gabardine outerwear.”
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