This is a 1980s Pal Zileri duffle coat from the rare Arbiter line, distributed through Walter Atelier in Bolzano-Bozen. The piece combines an oversized alpine cut with hand-finished Italian construction and a premium Bemberg quilted lining—a material almost never found in duffle coats from this era.

The Bemberg lining sets this apart. While most 1980s duffle coats used polyester, this features 100% Asahi Kasei cupro rayon with a geometric quilted pattern. The exterior is an 85% wool, 10% nylon, 5% other fibers blend—technical composition that provided durability without compromising hand-feel. Three horn-bone toggle buttons with original black leather trim remain fully functional, alongside a specialty collar button. Visible reinforced stitching at stress points and hand-finished details throughout confirm artisanal construction standards.

Pal Zileri established itself in the 1970s-80s as a northern Italian tailoring house balancing sportswear functionality with refined craft. The Arbiter line represented regional distribution through select boutique retailers. This burgundy colorway is uncommon—most production from this period defaulted to black, navy, or camel. The oversized alpine silhouette reflects the era’s approach to power-dressing sportswear, combining technical design with tailoring discipline.

The horizontal back seam, button-trimmed cuff straps, and two large functional patch pockets follow 1980s Italian construction logic. The quilted Bemberg interior provides thermal function while maintaining breathability. Reinforced shoulder stitching and hand-finishing at edges indicate workshop-level assembly rather than industrial production.

Measurements:
∙ Chest: 60cm (23.6”) pit-to-pit
∙ Shoulders: 55cm (21.6”) seam-to-seam
∙ Length: 104cm (40.9”) collar to hem
∙ Sleeves: 64cm (25.2”) shoulder seam to cuff
∙ Tagged IT48 but features characteristic 1980s oversized alpine construction. Fits modern: EU XL | US L | UK 42-44

Condition: Very Good (8.5/10)
Exterior wool shows no visible damage, peeling, or stains. Single minor fiber pull on left sleeve mid-section (~2-3mm, visible in photo 6)—typical for vintage wool and barely noticeable during wear. Lining fully intact with no tears or wear. All toggles and buttons secure and functional. Stitching sound throughout. No odors detected. Ready to wear.

Why It Stands Out:
The Arbiter line rarely surfaces in the secondary market. Combined with the Bemberg lining, burgundy colorway, and documented artisanal construction, fewer than five comparable examples appear annually across major platforms. This represents 1980s Italian menswear at a technical and craft level that has become increasingly difficult to find.

Shipping:
Tracked & insured. Spain 3-5d | EU 7-15d | UK 10-18d | USA 15-25d | Canada 18-30d | Asia 20-35d | Australia 25-40d. Express available — message for DHL/UPS quote.
Happy to provide additional photos or answer questions about construction details.

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