FW1991 Metal Hook Mohair Coat w/ Open Armpits and Zipped Vents

Extremely rare archive piece from Maison Martin Margiela’s sixth collection (FW1991–92).

Beautiful in fabric and radical in construction, yet entirely wearable. A crystal clear expression of early Margiela. Every element reflects the house’s pioneering exploration of deconstruction, function, and form.

Designed with a unisex aesthetic; also fits slimmer men comfortably (see size notes below).

FEATURES:

* Exposed neckline flap: unfolds for additional neck coverage
* Open armpits: allow mobility and ventilation
* Metal hook front closures: a subtle play on intimacy vs. outerwear; a classic early Margiela “inside-out” gesture
* Zipped hip vents: give access to pockets of under-layers and provide ventilation
* Elongated silhouette: unlined, with rich mohair/alpaca texture
* Ergonomic sleeve seam lines: enhance comfort and mobility; easy to roll
* Integrated zipped pockets: cleanly built into the structure

CONDITION:

Exceptional craftsmanship and remarkably well-preserved.

Minor shoulder wear from bag friction reveals a beautiful underlying weave, visually consistent with Margiela’s raw-texture aesthetic.

ABOUT:

In the late ’80s and early ’90s, Margiela reshaped fashion through deconstruction, visible structure, material experimentation, and a rejection of conventional glamour. This coat embodies that ethos: unconventional construction, deliberate exposure of structural elements, mohair/alpaca knit, and functional interventions (hooks, vents, open armholes). It is not just a vintage garment, it is a wearable artifact of a pivotal moment in fashion history.

SIZE / FIT / MEASUREMENTS:

Silhouette: Relaxed and elongated

Tagged Size: 44
Fits Women’s M–XL (also works for a tall S)
Fits Men’s 44–48

Oversized, elongated cut accommodates a broad range of sizes. Refer to measurements below for accuracy.

* Armpit to Armpit: 55 cm / 21.65 in
* Back Length: 93 cm / 36.61 in
* Front Length: 97 cm / 38.19 in
* Sleeve Length (armpit to cuff): 52 cm / 20.47 in
* Sleeve Length (approx. shoulder to cuff*): 66 cm / 25.98 in
*No defined shoulder seam; measurement is an estimate.