When discussing a great artist, we mainly think about the integrity of their oeuvre; the confidence, clarity, and personality of their work. We examine how they rework their influences and styles into a unique creation. Ann Demeulemeester excels in all of these traits and then some. The Antwerp-based designer is revered for casting aside trends in pursuit of creating new aesthetic guidelines. Similar to other elusive designers like Carol Christian Poell, her decision to remain slightly aloof from the volatile world of fashion allows her to appear much more contemplative and, in turn, give her work more resonance. After more than two decades in and out of the industry, Demeulemeester has fabricated a line that is indisputably her own.

Demeulemeester’s work can be seen as the interpretation of a very personal and ambiguous story, one that is not immediately traceable but can be felt through every article of her clothing. A wide array of unique silhouettes and cuts are done up in an often moody, monochromatic black and white color palette that perpetuates a strong poetic kinship. Her clothes can seem deceptively simple at first glance, but their effortless design signifies an underlying complexity. Demeulemeester’s tailoring is somewhat infamous for being the finest, if not the most radical, in the industry. A typical wardrobe consists of a slouchy black jacket, a pair of asymmetrical high-waisted trousers and overtly aggressive military combat boots. Each garment exudes a somewhat punk attitude, while still maintaining a cohesive ensemble. Demeulemeester’s need to remain true to her own vision and independent of trends displays her capacity to deviate from the popular market.

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