Within the past few years, a small group of ultra-niche designers has monopolized the craze for dark clothing and intricate, artisanal production techniques, rising to prominence alongside a revived interest in archival fashion. While there was always a small yet fiercely loyal clientele for brands such as Boris Bidjan Saberi, Guidi, A1923, Label Under Construction and m.a+, all have garnered a new cult following due in part to the mass-availability of mainstream fashion and to a newfound obsession with all things gothic and handmade. While these labels are held in high regard, none have drawn the same fervor as Carol Christian Poell. Renowned for his ground-breaking design techniques, Poell’s ability to obstruct himself from popular attention has both added to his allure and in turn made him one of the greatest marvels in modern fashion.

Poell’s cult following is a direct result of his uncompromisingly designed garments, chock full of experimental fabrics and so rigid in construction that suits resemble an ensemble of elegant armor. He has almost exclusively occupied the intersection between bespoke menswear silhouettes and experimental design techniques. However, while his designs are in a league of their own, Poell has remained fiercely protective of his independence from commercial and stylistic trends in fashion.

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