Nike’s partnership with the number one streetwear brand in the world dates back to 2002 with the inaugural Supreme x Nike Dunk Low Pro SB. Considering the New York brand’s skate roots, many Supreme/Nike collaborations utilize models from the the SB line. That said, James Jebbia and co. consistently make unexpected choices when choosing to work with the Swoosh.

While Supreme has made its mark on Nike’s more popular models, like the Foamposite in 2014 and the Jordan 5 in 2015, among countless others, it has also reached into the archives, bringing renewed interest to more niche silhouettes. The collaborative Air Max 98—particularly the snakeskin and varsity red colorways—for instance, helped introduce an entirely new generation to the sneaker, prefacing a major comeback as roadman style took off the following year. Similarly with its revival of the Nike Air More Uptempo in 2017, which replaced Wilson Smith’s original 1996 “AIR” letters with “SUPREME” branding wrapping the sneaker. The result is both an instant classic and led tons of streetwear fiends to seek out the originals. Less buzzed about were the Air Force 2 and Air Humura models, both released that same year.

Nike though is more than simply a sneaker company—it’s the number one sportswear brand in the world, with apparel a vital part of its business. That fact is not lost on collaborators, Supreme in particular. Take the infamous Supreme x Nike NBA shooting sleeve, debuted by Kelly Oubre Jr. The accessory epitomizes the Nike x Supreme relationship: unexpected, utilitarian and above all iconic.

Last year, Supreme continued its string of unorthodox releases, including two Air Force 1 Mid colorways adorned with various NBA team logos, an updated flame-adorned Nike Air Streak Spectrum Plus and the skate-friendly Nike SB Gato. For the Fall/Winter 2018 season, Supreme continued to expand its collaborative clothing collection with Nike, releasing cotton twill overalls, work jackets, flannel hoodies, a work vest and an all-over Nike logo polo. While less hyped than the aforementioned sneakers, the collection shows Nike’s commitment to streetwear is not limited to shoes, and with the help of Supreme is finding new ways to reach and interact with youth culture—whether it be apparel on their backs or shoes on their feet.

In 2010, Nike partnered with Jun Takahashi, founder of Undercover and a formative figure in Japanese streetwear, to create Gyakusou. Literally meaning “running in reverse,” the brand is directly inspired by Takahashi’s own experience as a distance runner and his penchant for running opposite the designated direction on local park trails. Unique to Gyakusou was that rather than work with his label, Nike directly reached out to Takashi himself, more concerned with his specific experience than his brand’s international appeal.

Gyakusou’s debut collection, composed of running shells and bottoms, notably introduced the lightweight stretch jacket, now a brand signature. Field tested by Takashi’s crew of subjects—the Gyakusou Running Club–the lightweight stretch jacket put an emphasis on movement with near seamless construction and removable sleeves to accommodate changing climates.

Following seasons veered in many different directions, however the line’s focus remained the same: merging design and practicality. While the clothing line has always been the product of Takahashi—and not Undercover—the accompanying footwear is a bit more complex. The first Gyakusou sneaker, Takahashi’s reworked LunarSpeed AXL runner, was released in 2014 and featured clashing colorways and bold Swoosh branding on the toe box. Two years later, the NikeLab Gyakusou LunarEpic Flyknit debuted, a shoe predating the proliferation of sock sneakers. Each sneaker was clearly intended for running, as were the associated collections. Then in 2017, Takashi’s relationship with Nike expanded beyond running.

An Undercover x NikeLab collaboration was announced, totally unrelated to Takahashi’s Gyakusou line. Fusing the upper from Nike’s classic SB Dunk High to the outsole from the SFB Jungle Boot and adding a Hurrache cage to boot, the sneaker was a totally unexpected departure from Takahashi’s prior work with the Swoosh. That said, the mix-and-matched sneaker was clearly born from the same aesthetic process as Undercover collections, creating a link between Takashi's brand and his work with Nike. Finally fans of Undercover who weren’t interested in running had something to cop.

In 2018, Takashi once again focused on running, releasing the Nike Gyakusou Zoom Fly SP. Now courting both runners and streetwear fans alike however, a second Nike x Undercover collaboration arrived, utilizing the most popular Nike silhouette in years, the React Element. In four eye-popping colorways, the Nike React Element 87 Undercover became instantly coveted by sneaker fans, techwear junkies and streetwear heads alike. Combining the innate cool of Japanese streetwear with Nike’s latest footwear technology, react foam, the shoe is exactly what you should expect from an Undercover x Nike collaboration. That ability is exactly what manages to make Takahashi such an elite Nike collaborator. While Gyakusou is as innately personal as it is functional, the Undercover collaborations are a direct reflection of the brand through a Nike lens. Takahashi manages to design both flawlessly.

Similar to Takahashi, Acronym co-founder Errolson Hugh’s relationship with Nike is two-fold: as an individual and as a brand. What it lacks in longevity, Hugh’s collaboration more than makes up for by pushing the boundaries of Nike’s technological limits—and connecting the sports giant with an entirely new spectrum of fashion, techwear. Hugh’s work with Nike began in 2014, when Hugh was assigned to reinvigorate the stale ACG (All Conditions Gear) line. While successful in the ‘90s and early ‘00s, the colorful extreme sports gear felt dated given the current tech heavy state of the market. Under Hugh, the newly rebranded NikeLab ACG utilized the most advanced fabrics and construction methods available to create gear literally suited for any environment. From built-in heating devices to detachable outer layers and modular clips to attach pieces together, ACG was essentially a more palatable—in terms of price and aesthetic—alternative to Hugh’s Acronym. Yet, some of those original outdoorsy elements remained, with striking colorways (tiger stripe camo, safety orange) and rugged footwear blurring the line between hiking boots and sneakers making repeat apperances. Models like the NikeLab ACG 07 KMTR and NikeLabACG Lupinek redefined stylish sneakerboots, while the flagship 3-in-1 system coat became a smash hit.

While ACG stood alone, Nike was seemingly so pleased with Hugh’s work they tapped him for another collaboration, this time under his Acronym label. While the Acronym Lunar Force 1, Air Force 1 and VaporMax FK Moc 2 were all successful and quickly sold out, his crowning achievement was no doubt 2016’s Acronym Air Presto. Recreating the mid-cut model from the sole up, functional improvements including dual-zips and aggressive overlays transformed a nearly forgotten silhouette to shoe of the year. More than simply create a hyped shoe, Hugh’s Acronym Presto served as the basis for an entirely new silhouette, the Nike Air Presto Utility. Released shortly afterwards, the affordable alternative exemplifies exactly why Nike collaborators are so crucial—they lay the foundation for the future.

While NikeLab ACG was disbanded at the end of 2018, Hugh’s work was instrumental in bridging the gap between techwear and sportswear for years to come.

No list of Nike collaborators would be complete without Kanye West. Years before Yeezy, West began his foray into sneakers with BAPE in 2007 on a now iconic Bapesta featuring The Dropout Bear. Next came his work with Louis Vuitton, the Don and Jasper, respectively. By 2008, West the “Louis Vuitton Don” was widely recognized as one of the most influential people in sneakers.

Following months of speculation and public demand, West’s debut Nike sneaker, the Air Yeezy 1, finally released in 2009. A seismic shift in the footwear market, the Air Yeezy redefined what a non-athlete signature shoe could be. More than a simple rework or cosign, the Air Yeezy was an entirely new silhouette designed by—not just for—a musician. While today thay may not seem out of the ordinary, a decade ago it was a radical notion. With as many fans as critics, the Air Yeezy 1 became one of the most divisive sneakers in years, and cemented West’s status as a fashion provocateur.

Following the Air Yeezy 1, a sequel was inevitable. After countless teases by both West and Jay-Z, in 2012 Nike released two colorways of the Air Yeezy 2, Solar Red and Pure Platinum. The hype was extreme, and the shoes were a runway success. Already sold out, the shoe’s popularity only spread as West wore them throughout the “Watch the Throne” tour. Yet, tensions were running high between Nike and West behind closed doors. Due to a contract dispute—reportedly Nike refused to offer West, a non-athlete, royalties—West left Nike for adidas before dropping one of the most anticipated sneakers in Nike history, the Red Octobers. Two years following West’s departure, the most hyped sneaker in recent history dropped out of nowhere on Nike’s webstore, and sneakerheads went berserk. Knowing full well there were no future releases in sights given Ye’s new allegiance, the last collaborative sneaker with its unannounced drop was etched into sneaker lore.

More than simply a design by the then world’s most stylish artist, the Yeezy changed the paradigm. Certain elements—the ridged back, the lace locks, the textured leather–were purely aesthetic. There were few functional features or technological advancements. The shoes were almost purely for aesthetic, a first for the Swoosh. Their success showed the Nike was more than a sportswear company, and paved the way for Nike’s entire lifestyle division.

The most buzzed sneaker collaboration in recent history is no doubt “The Ten,” Nike’s ongoing collaboration with Off-White founder Virgil Abloh. Officially announced by Abloh and Nike in 2017, “The Ten” saw Abloh de- and reconstruct ten silhouettes from Nike and Nike-owned brands Converse and Jordan. Models such as the Air Max 90, Air Max 97, Air Force 1, Nike Air Presto, Nike Air VaporMax, Nike Blazer Mid, Nike React Hyperdunk, Nike Zoom Vaporfly SP, Converse Chuck Taylor All-Star and, most notably, the Air Jordan 1 received Abloh’s paired back treatment which included exposed stitching, fat foam tongues and infamous “instructions.”

Having lost market share—and arguably, prestige—to adidas due to the success of the Yeezy line and Boost technology, Nike needed a win. One of the best selling designers on earth, Abloh was, and still is the man to watch. While Yeezy’s controlled the second-hand market, Abloh’s massive fanbase is incomparable, and demand for “The Ten” proved insatiable. The release was so successful that it prompted Nike to release numerous additional silhouettes throughout 2018, including new Jordan 1 and Air Presto iterations as well as a collaboration with Serena Williams.

While “The Ten” is rumoured to nearing its conclusion, Abloh was the first in a series of notable collaborators that helped Nike both regain lost market share as well as reclaim the title of world’s coolest sneaker company. As Abloh’s star continues to rise, “The Ten” will no doubt be considered one of the most important collaborations in modern Nike history.

Tokyo-based sneaker boutique Atmos laid the blueprint for nearly every boutique exclusive Nike release and collaboration of the last two decades. Its relationship with Nike, which began in 2001, spawned some of the most coveted Air Max’s in history. While the most notable Atmos x Nike releases were over a decade ago, recent reissues have brought a renewed sense of interest to the revered retailer, showing how a single store can turn the sneaker market on its head.

Classics like the Air Max 1 “Safari,” “Elephant” and Atmos Animal Pack—which included both an Air Max 1 and Air Max 95—helped spark the “sneaker tourism” trend in the early ‘00s, which had sneakerheads flocking to Japan to cop Atmos exclusives. The recent string of re-releases, including all aforementioned models, introduced a new generation to sneakers that, for OGs, were the ultimate sign for those in the know.

Atmos is more than simply a boutique, it helped establish Tokyo as a sneaker capital. Before it was a wholesaler, Atmos was one of the first successful sneaker resellers, a pivotal figure in the the Tokyo secondhand market. More than bring sneakerheads to Japan, Atmos helped shape sneaker culture across the country, a crucial Nike market. As Nike continues to make regional exclusives, those first Atmos Air Max’s are no doubt still top of mind.

Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons universe has upended the fashion world in multiple ways—least of which is its relationship with Nike. A collaborator for nearly two decades, Comme des Garçons helped introduce sneakers to the runway, and played a pivotal role in sneakers’ infiltration of high-fashion.

In the past decade alone, Comme des Garçon various sublines have collaborated with Nike on the Air Force 1 Low, Blazer, Air Python SP, 10th Anniversary Tennis Classic, Air Jordan 1, Roshe, Dunk High, Air VaporMax and countless other models—especially if you include Dover Street Market exclusives. Kawkubo’s anti-fashion mentality was perfectly suited to rework classic sneakers, adding luxurious elements and unconventional details despite a usually muted color palette. Kawakubo's work with the Swoosh helped solidify the idea that sneakers can be considered high-fashion items, and influenced legions of her proteges and peers alike to introduce high-fashion Nike collaborations on the runway, from Sacai’s Chitose Abe to 1017 ALYX 9SM’s Matthew Williams.

For Nike, this decades long relationship helped the company slowly sneak into the fashion space, for it an entirely untapped market controlled entirely by adidas’ Y-3 line. By aligning itself with Kawakubo and Comme des Garçon, Nike found a new way to reach high fashion customers, prompting numerous collaborations with other designers moving forward.

A joint venture between streetwear OGs Eddie Cruz and James Bond, Los Angeles based boutique-cum brand Undefeated holds an illustrious history in the sneaker world. In 2002, shortly after it opened, the shop began to create local buzz, prompting Nike representatives to visit an off the shop some location exclusives. The relationship grew from there and peaked in 2005, when Undefeated released one of the rarest Jordans in history. The first ever Jordan retro collaboration, the Undefeated Air Jordan 4s were limited to just 72 pairs and released in the midst of the retro Jordan resurgence achieved instant Grailed status. In an olive, black and orange colorway with an Undefeated logo on the inside tag, the insanely limited sneakers helped prove that exclusivity is the key to hype.

While Undefeated has worked with Nike on several other instances, including a series of Air Force 1 models and a pair of Air Max 97s for the shoes 20th anniversary in 2017, they pale in comparison to the Jordan collab. What makes Undefeated such an important collaborator is what it taught Nike—you cannot replicate local buzz. Exclusivity alone does not create hype. There’s an additional ingredient: allure. At the time, Undefeated was one of the most celebrated and respected boutiques on the West Coast. That fact in conjunction with the limited nature of the Jordan collaboration is what made them so coveted—and Nike quickly realized as much. Each ultra-limited edition since, Nike has made sure to align with a partner excites people as much at the product itself.

Patta and Pieter Parra—a boutique and artist, respectively—helped cultivate a sneaker scene in their native Netherlands. Founded by Edson Sabajo and Guillaume ‘Gee’ Schmidt in 2004 in Amsterdam, the Patta boutique and brand has worked with everyone in the footwear industry. While more prone to work with European and niche sneaker labels, Patta’s Air Max 1 pack in 2009 became one of the most coveted Air Max releases in years. Commemorating the store’s 5th Anniversary, the four exceedingly colorful colorways were well received, particularly the Green/Grey, still one of the most expensive Air Max 1s on the secondhand market. Surprisingly a 5th sneaker was released in 2010, this time a three-way collaboration between Nike, Patta and Parra. Covered in burgundy suede with asymmetrical Nike swooshes of burgundy and blue chenille on the lateral and medial sides, the Air Max 1 “Cherrywood” is one of the best artist collaborations in Air Max history, and proved Nike could successfully reinterpret an artist’s signature style on a sneaker

The “Cherrywood” was in fact but one of Parra’s many collaborations with the Swoosh. His first Air Max 1 sneaker, the “Amsterdam,” released in 2005 was the first to feature the artist’s signature red, burgundy and teal blue hues, which similarly wound up on the “Cherrywood.” While both Patta and Parra have collaborated with Nike multiple times since, those initial collaborations in the mid-’00s helped Nike penetrate the sneaker market in the Netherlands, proving that the way to ingratiate yourself in a scene is to work directly with those responsible for it.

Drake’s relationship with Jordan Brand is emblematic of exactly how powerful a celebrity cosign can be. Unlike West, Drake’s OVO Jordans are not signature sneakers. They are not even reworkings of classic models. Drake isn’t even particularly stylish himself. His shoes are simply exclusive colorways. Still, considering Drake is the most popular artist on earth, they do huge numbers. The series of collaborations have essentially replicated his clothing brand’s—October’s Very Own—aesthetic, plastering gold the owl logo on classic Jordan silhouettes on the Air Jordan 10, 12 and 8. While there is some associated apparel including shorts and tracksuits, the bulk of the collaboration are those limited Jordans.

What makes the collaboration significant is not the product, but the history. Rumours ran rampant that Drake was jumping ship to adidas last year, however multiple feuds between Canada’s finest and Pusha T as well as West led to him sticking with the Jumpman. With Drake, Nike proved that aesthetic and technology aside, you simply can’t beat the power of celebrity. As long as Drake keeps rapping “checks over stripes,” Jordan releases will undoubtedly follow.