Launched in 2001 by Hiroki Nakamura, visvim has grown immensely since its humble, footwear-based beginnings. Nakamura weaves together seemingly-disconnected sources of inspiration–his collections often convey Americana through the lens of traditional Japanese craftsmanship. This unique vision is artfully represented in “Social Sculpture,” visvim’s denim line. “I was thinking how to make my denim really strong and powerful,” Nakamura said in a 2013 interview with GQ. “So I realized I had to design from the yarn up. I mix all different types of slubs to make uneven denim. I almost took the denim to tiny pieces and reconstructed it–so it's almost like making a sculpture. That's why I refer to it as ‘Social Sculpture.’" In addition to encompassing a wide range of fits, from the more traditional (01) to the more tailored (04), visvim’s denim line also contains a wide variety of finishes. The most remarkable aspect of said finishes is that a majority are are done entirely by hand. Even more impressive, some of the heavily distressed iterations faded without resorting to a wash, maintaining the raw quality. Made exclusively in Japan on vintage shuttle looms, visvim’s denim is finished off with signature details–an indigo-dyed deerskin patch, two-tone stitching, a selvedge outseam–a mark of true craftsmanship.

Kapital is truly at the forefront of innovation in the denim world. Helmed by father/son duo Toshikiyo and Kiro Hirata, Kapital epitomizes Japanese influenced Americana and focuses heavily on experimentation, whether it be in the form of patchwork accents on their clothing or eclectic dye processes on their denim. Kapital’s name is derived from Kojima, Japan's denim capital located in the Okayama prefecture. The “Century” jeans, released in 2012, is a stunning embodiment of Kapital’s vision. An amalgamation of traditional Japanese techniques, which, when combined, make something entirely new. Through the use Kakishibu, an ancient dye process which uses fermented persimmon juice to achieve the orange-brown hue, as well as Sashiko, a stitching technique typically used to reinforce points of wear, the Century jeans truly encapsulate the Kapital aesthetic.

Paving the way for future denim brands, Big John was the first Japanese company to produce jeans using exclusively local materials. Dating back to the early 1940s, Big John was originally known as Maruo Clothing, and placed an emphasis on workwear and pants inspired by the popular looks of the United States. In the early 60s, however, Maruo shifted towards producing jeans with American-made denim, and in 1967, produced their first pair of using fabric imported from the iconic Cone Mills. Just a few years later, Big John changed their focus a second time, aiming to once again produce jeans with denim from Japanese mills. In 1972, they developed an entirely Japanese-made fabric, dubbed the “KD-8,” with Kurabo Mills, and a full denim line arrived one year later. In the 80s, Big John was the first company to produce denim with uneven yarns, yielding exotic fades. Throughout its storied history, the brand has served as an inspiration and foundation for Japan’s denim world.

A 25 year veteran in the denim business, Shinichi Haraki is a modern authority on Japanese jeans. His journey began as a pattern-maker at Edwin, where he honed his craft and flew through the ranks, ending as a director after only 3 years at the company. At age 26, Haraki started an advising business centered on providing insight into the world of denim production and design. After amassing a wealth of knowledge, he founded Iron Heart in 2003 with a strong emphasis on heavyweight denim, targeting Japan's niche motorcycling community. Following two successful years, Haraki formed a fruitful partnership with Giles Padmore, a U.K. based designer who helped broaden the scope of the brand. Still, Iron Heart’s core mission guides the wares of the company to this day, and the significantly heavier denim continues to be manufactured entirely in Japan with an focus on durability, protection, and, following a few wears, comfort.

The first member of the esteemed “Osaka 5,” a moniker for the five companies that helped shape Japan’s then-nascent denim industry, Studio D’Artisan was established in 1979 by Shigeharu Tagaki. Their hallmark mode, the “DO-1,” an American-inspired workpant with meticulous French detailing released in 1986, featured vintage, shuttle-loomed denim and hank-dyed yarn. The first vintage Japanese selvedge model ever created, the “DO-1” quickly became lauded for its ability to inhabit both the traditional and forward-thinking worlds. At the heart of Studio D’Artisan is a deep respect for tradition coupled with a mindset of progression, a philosophy that has garnered a devout following of denim and non-denim-heads alike.