As much as we at Grailed enjoy digging into the archives and scouring the globe for the unique, hyper-rare and influential garments that inspire both our favorite designers and the fashion community at large, we also know that fashion is an ever-changing space. As new seasons and new collections hit runways around the world, we want to spotlight our favorite collections and the items within them—hopefully providing some insight on what we believe will become grails (or at least, what collections will have impact) in the days, seasons and years to come.

Maybe Raf Simons is aware that—at least as far as New York fashion is concerned—he’s the main attraction. Why else would invites be shipped out in popcorn bags, and the runway floor covered in the classic movie-goer’s snack (so much so that it looked like snow—coincidentally perfect for a Fall/Winter collection). But as cinematic as the decorations were, it was clear that a movie itself—the 1995 film Safe, according to Vogue—played a bigger role in steering the collection.

Part psychological thriller, part “new age healing” critique, Julianne Moore stars as a housewife who devolves into both illness and madness as she attempts to understand and grapple with a sickness thought to be brought on by a reaction to modern-day chemicals in the environment. In this way, the reflective, firefighter-esque, safety suit-outerwear, balaclavas, gloves and shiny, rubber-like trousers (boots?) (as seen in Looks 30, 32, 62 and 64) hit the “safety” aesthetic right on the head.

But while there’s plenty of new garments to look at, there were some clear continuations on what Simons has already sent down earlier Calvin Klein runways. While some of the heavy-duty fastenings (noted on Looks 2 and 3) and painted outerwear (Looks 8 and 9) feel like callbacks to his eponymous collection’s Spring/Summer 2018 outerwear and Spring/Summer 2018 Calvin Klein collection respectively, the most iconic piece to make a reappearance were Simons’ cowboy shirts (Looks 21, 23 and tucked into Look 53)—which seems to be something of a signature for Simons-era Calvin Klein. In terms of a “future grails” context, these more evergreen are always going to be a symbol of Simons’ injection of cool into the once-lagging label.

While these garments felt more in line with what Simons has already done at Calvin Klein (not to mention the tailored-but-broad-shouldered topcoats scattered throughout) there were a few surprises. Wile E. Coyote and Roadrunner-adorned knits (Looks 13 and 17) were more lighthearted additions to a collection shown with a burned-out barn looming in the background; given that Looney Tunes used to run before theatrically-released films, it’s also a detail closer to Simons cinematic inspirations than one might realize at first glance. Other standout include the patchwork shirting (Looks 30, 31 and 32) which seemed to blend Simons own homey “American” aesthetic while recalling Hiroki Nakamura’s shirt detailing at Visvim.

No matter what pieces caught your eye in this collection, it’s yet another reminder that—in New York—Simons is holding steady as the brightest headliner on the metaphorical marquee.

Tags: raf-simons, calvin-klein, new-york-fashion-week, new-york, future-grails