In 2011, Uniqlo announced a collaboration with Jun Takahashi’s revered Japanese label Undercover. For Takahashi, working with Uniqlo was a chance to design approachable and affordable clothing—as opposed to prior Undercover collabs focused on premium product with like-minded designers. The branded subline, UU, included men’s, women’s and children’s product—a category which Undercover had previously attemped independently, however had abadoned due to prohibitive costs. The collection was truly a family affair, with Takahashi’s wife Rico responsible for designing the kids collection.

On his personal HONEYEE blog, Takahashi explained his reasoning for working with the massive conglomerate: “One of the main reasons why I decided to do this project and resume making children’s clothes was the fact that the line had so many fans. Another big reason was that I wanted to offer our creations to people who until now had never heard of Undercover. In this regard, we have a bigger footprint than other brands. It would be a wonderful thing to have many people wearing the clothes I had designed.”

For the collection, Takahashi injected classic Undercover details and attitude into Uniqlo staples. Released in two seperate seasons, the first Spring/Summer collection was released March 2012 and covered a broad range of categories from comfortable loungewear to shirting and outerwear. Takahashi described the first collection as casual basics that could easily exist outside the Undercover universe. The second UU season, however, was more experimental than the first and included eye-catching fall statement pieces like fleece zip-ups, down jackets and a faux fur hooded parka as well as zip cargo jeans that are still lusted after. Despite only running for two seasons, UU is still considered one of the most ambitious and popular collaborations in Uniqlo’s history, as well as an interesting chapter in Takahashi’s storied career. In 2014 the collection was revived however was limited to childrenswear.

Jil Sander and Uniqlo may have seemed like an odd pairing when they began their partnership in 2009, but the collaboration was a gamechanger for the Japanese retailer. In the midst of an American expansion after opening its first global flagship store in New York’s SoHo neighborhood in 2006, Uniqlo was actively searching for ways to appeal to American clientele, and it felt +J was a step in the right direction.

Unlike other collaborations on the list, +J is unique as rather than working with a brand, the collection was a collaboration with the designer herself. Jil Sander had been on a hiatus from designing since 2000, after she sold 75 percent of her company to Prada. With Sander devotees clamoring for any opportunity to purchase her minimalist designs, the debut Fall/Winter 2009 collection was a smash success. While designer collaborations were already common in the world of fast fashion, the depth of the +J collection—which included everything from straight leg denim to lush camel coats for both men and women—was notable at the time. Longtime fans of Sander’s work had something accessible to invest in. Rather than cashing in on her name, Sander ensured that the project was ambitious in scope. The objective was to create a modern stylish uniform for the masses, and Sander undoubtedly succeeded. Right from the outset, +J was a commercial success drawing long lines and press galore.

Rather than a one-off capsule like most fast fashion collaborations at that time, +J was a recurring collection than ran for a total of five seasons. With slim cut silhouettes, a monochromatic color palette and luxury-like fabrics, +J delivered fashion house taste level at a fast fashion price point. The fact that an icon like Sander continued to work with Uniqlo for so many seasons no doubt solidified the company’s reputation among style-conscious consumers. In 2011, the line was unfortunately discontinued as Sander’s relationship with the company came to a close. +J was briefly revived, however, for a 42-piece “greatest hits” collection in 2014.

Christophe Lemaire made a name for himself through both his eponymous line designed with partner Sarah-Linh Tran and as creative director of Hermès where he oversaw womenswear collections following the departure of Jean Paul Gaultier. Lemaire’s distinct aesthetic—refined, architectural, conceptual yet somehow still understated—clearly caught Uniqlo’s attention, prompting the brand to reach out to the designer to work on a capsule collection in 2015. Working with the Japanese mainstay on a collection of effortless staples, the corresponding pieces brought an air of luxury to garments including trench coats, knitwear, robes, trousers and sport jackets. The collection—both men’s and women’s—placed great emphasis on fabric choice, such as water-repellent cotton, knit lambswool, merino wool and cashmere. The entire collection felt more like something from a high end department store than a fast fashion retailer. An instant hit with casual Uniqlo shoppers as well as Lemaire’s fanbase, the capsule managed to replicate Lemaire’s effortless cool while boasting Uniqlo technology, all at an entry-level price point. The collection created huge buzz, quickly selling out both in-store and online. Not simply just a boon for Uniqlo, that partnership was mutually beneficial. Since Lemaire joined Uniqlo in 2015, sales at his namesake label have doubled, no doubt due to increased visibility following the high-profile collaboration.

Lemaire and Uniqlo’s relationship proved fruitful enough that it developed into something even more substantial. In 2016, Uniqlo named Lemaire as an artistic director in charge of the brand’s research and development offices in Paris. Externally this was reflected with the release of his own permanent collection, Uniqlo U, in 2016. Uniqlo also tapped Lemaire to design clothing for the brand’s sponsored athletes including tennis stars Kei Nishikori and Roger Federer. Rather than a short-lived partnership meant to act as a quick cash-grab, Lemaire’s position at the company and Uniqlo U’s success differentiates this relationship from other fast fashion collaborations that feel like simplistic marketing ploys in comparison. Reaffirming its faith in the designer, Uniqlo extended Lemaire’s contact last year, singing him on for an additional five years meaning he’ll be with the company through 2023.

Through his decades long career as an artist, KAWS ventured into the clothing space numerous times, mostly notably with his now defunct streetwear line in collaboration with Medicom Toy, Original Fake, but additionally in countless collaborations with the likes of Nike, Supreme and most recently Kim Jones’ debut Dior Men’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection. KAWS’ most readily accessible—and commercially successful—collaboration however is his ongoing partnership with Uniqlo. KAWS first Uniqlo collab dropped in April 2016, as part of its seasonal collection of graphic t-shirts. Despite Uniqlo’s size, the KAWS collaboration happened casually, a result of his numerous friends in the industry. “I go with what I think is working and what opportunities present themselves. Masamichi Katayama, who’s a friend of mine, designs all of the Uniqlo stores, and he invited me when he opened the Fifth Avenue store. His company is called Wonderwall. [It was] knowing him and Nigo [that made this collaboration happen]. Nigo moved on from BAPE and started to direct Uniqlo, and it all happened in a casual way,” KAWS said to Complex.

The first collection featured several of KAWS’ characters drawn in the artist’s subversive pop-art style. The graphics appeared on a range of 18 tees and four totes, released under the T-shirt line, UT. KAWS’ pre-existing audience and the collections entry-level price point—ranging from $15-20—ensured it quickly sold out, even catching the attention of resellers hoping to flip the coveted tees. The collaboration was such a success that it prompted several subsequent releases, utilizing characters from Peanuts, Sesame Street and even expanding to include dolls that are now the highlight of each drop.

London based designer Jonathan Anderson was no stranger to Uniqlo prior to their official working relationship. Anderson confessed to Vogue one of the reasons he was so excited to work with the brand was that he wore Uniqlo nearly every day—a navy Uniqlo cashmere sweater is part of his daily uniform. While his namesake label, JW Anderson has steadily grown since its launch in 2008, a collaboration with Uniqlo introduced Anderson to an entirely different consumer. “For me, the point of doing this collaboration was that I believe in democracy in fashion, and what I hope will be achieved is that any demographic can pick up and find something within the collection to relate to,” Anderson said.

Unlike prior designer collaborations, which integrated specific design sensibilities to elevate Uniqlo staples, Anderson’s collection was entirely thematic. Inspired by historical British garments—a theme regularly present in his eponymous line—the 33-piece collection included duffle coats, fisherman's sweaters and a liberal use of check plaid for men and women, as well as some unisex items. The two collaborators decided to run it back in 2018 with a follow-up collection with even more precise direction. The second collaboration was inspired by the beaches of Brighton, a popular British vacation destination. In contrast to the first outerwear-heavy collection, the 2018 capsule was more lightweight, airy and incorporated softer materials, a reflection of its resort inspiration. Pinstripe grandad shirts, loose-fitting chinos and nautical stripes accompanied a campaign shot at Brighton Beach, naturally.

Following the sale of BAPE to Hong Kong-based company I.T in 2013, NIGO was recruited by Uniqlo to become creative director of its UT line. Beginning with the brand’s Spring/Summer 2014 season, NIGO instantly brought a familiar streetwear vibe to the collection, as well as a level of industry cache and a wide circle of friends (including KAWS as previously noted). Speaking with The Guardian, NIGO described why the opportunity appealed to him: “The ability to work on a mass scale was also a factor. It was about the global reach of the company. UT is streetwear, effectively. It's what people really wear on the street. It's interesting for me to be able to influence that."

One of the first new collections under NIGO’s direction was a collaboration with long time friend Pharrell. At the time, Pharrell was focused on expanding his multimedia creative platform, i am OTHER, which serves as hub for his countless endeavors. The capsule included men's and women's T-shirts in 14 colors and patterns and seven styles of baseball caps, each with a message from Pharrell. Slogans from the line included "Think Other" and "The Same is Lame." A full campaign accompanied the April 2014 launch, including a television ad starring Pharrell. While Uniqlo had avoided explicit celebrity endorsement in the past, it felt Pharrell was the perfect frontman to introduce its reinvigorated graphic t-shirt program overseen by NIGO.

Other than eye catching text and images on clothing, the capsule collection also went the extra mile in terms of actual garment construction. The tees were carefully designed with both sewn and seamless body styles, while the caps boasted a customized shape and quality embroidery. The capsule marked a shift in Uniqlo’s UT program, a move away from simple graphic tees to a more expressive, streetwear-driven collection with an eye towards pop-culture relevancy.

SPRZ NY (Surprise New York) is an NY-based sub-line inspired by artists—pop and street in particular. Best described as “a place where clothes and art meet,”, each SPRZ NY collection is made up of clothing and accessories emblazoned with reproductions of notable works of art. Since the line’s launch, a part of every of drop includes MoMA Special Edition items which take direct inspiration from the museum’s collections. Based on the works of world-renowned artists including Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, Jack Pierson, Jackson Pollock, Lawrence Weiner, Ryan McGinness and Sarah Morris, the collaborative pieces dig through MoMA’s extensive archive to create wearable—and affordable—works of art.

In 2013, Uniqlo made the decision to give back to the institution directly by becoming a multi-year corporate sponsor of MoMA. Uniqlo supports the museum’s friday night public admission program, UNIQLO Free Friday Nights, which provides free access to the museum from 4 to 8PM every Friday. Following the sponsorship, special edition products—initially limited to Uniqlo’s 5th Avenue New York flagship store—are now available at MoMA Design Store outposts. Rather than simply art on t-shirts, the collaboration is an ongoing partnership with Uniqlo not only offering notable works of art for cheap, but additionally making a contribution to the institution that houses them and even providing the public an opportunity to actually view them free of cost. More than a PR stunt, it is a rare collaboration where it feels as if the partner actually cares. In the world of fast-fashion, that’s a rarity, and it sets Uniqlo apart.