Weekend Reading: May 11, 2018
Weekend Reading: May 11, 2018
- Words Grailed Team
- Date May 11, 2018
Weekend Reading is a weekly rundown of our favorite stories from around the web.
Is there a story worth scoping out that we missed? Discuss this past week's headlines, and share your favorite stories from the week that was in our comments section below.
Gosha Rubchinskiy on the End of Gosha Rubchinskiy—And More From His Talk in Tbilisi, Georgia
Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy kicked off Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi with a talk at the deserted swimming pool turned nightclub Bassiani. The event started with a video recording of his Fall 2018 show in which his runway models explained who and where they were from. Next, the designer gave a low-key speech in Russian on topics ranging from his namesake label (which he recently announced he would stop showing) to the cycles of art. Afterward, there was a brief panel, the subjects of which included fashion’s power to unite, Rubchinskiy’s skate shop in Moscow, and how he met Adrian Joffe of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market.
Diet Prada, Unmasked
Now, imagine you’re a frustrated designer, working an entry-level job, relegated to researching the work of others in order to help fuel the creativity of your current employer. This was the plight of Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler, who met in 2010 doing just that. (By all accounts, including Schuyler’s LinkedIn page and Liu’s resume, which was published on fundraising platform AngelList, they worked for milliner Eugenia Kim, although they won’t speak about it publicly. A representative declined to comment.)
via: Business of Fashion
How Prada Defined Athleisure Before It Was Even a Thing
Imagine, if you will, the world before jogger pants. In the early ‘90s, designer Neil Barrett (then at Gucci) approached Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli with the idea of a Prada Men’s collection. Bertelli bit. The first season of Prada Men’s launched Fall/Winter 1995, composed of minimalist menswear. Barrett, indeed, can claim credit for launching the “monochrome” look for men’s fashion: from the maximalist power-tie ’80s to a Matrix decade of matching shirts, suits, and ties.
How Stone Island Maintains Its Edge
In a way, Stone Island is an unclassifiable brand. It’s not exactly fashion—they don’t stage runway shows, and their roots are firmly embedded in the kind of a no-fuss, masculine dressing that shies away from fashion’s self-importance. Yet design-wise, it exceeds a lot of what passes for “high fashion” these days. Nor is it exactly streetwear, as the company’s focus is different from the streetwear uniform of sneakers, jeans, joggers, and hoodies. Stone Island occupies a place somewhere in-between—a brand for people who work in fashion but are not of fashion, such as i-D’s Fashion Director Alastair McKimm and the conceptual menswear designer Aitor Throup. Stone Island was there long before the current red-hot intersection of fashion and streetwear took hold.
The Secret History of Warhol's First Commercially Successful Film
During the summer of 1966, while hanging out in the famed backroom of Max’s Kansas City, Andy Warhol took a napkin and began to draw a line down the middle. On one side, he wrote “B,” and on the other “W.” From this simple sketch, the concept of a split screen film, which would become Chelsea Girls, was born.
Decidedly Divided: How Does adidas Solve a Problem Like Kanye West?
Should he stay or should he go? Critics are split on what adidas should do with creative collaborator Kanye West following an ongoing (and increasingly eye-roll-worthy and at times, downright offensive) Twitter rant, including assertions that slavery was a “choice,” in which West is using controversy to help him regain relevance in the mind of the mass market ahead of an array of impending projects including two new albums.
via: The Fashion Law
Pope Rihanna and Other Revelations from the Catholic-Themed 2018 Met Gala
It is no surprise that Monday night’s Met Gala was one of the most satisfying in years. Dressing to this year’s theme—officially the Eucharist, but better summed up by the title of the Costume Institute’s new exhibit, “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination”—was a far less complex assignment than that of the 2017 event, which celebrated the (often challenging, conceptual) work of Comme des Garçons’ visionary designer Rei Kawakubo; and it was less thorny to navigate than the theme two years before that, which explored Western designers’ fascination with China and led to more than one moment of uncomfortable cultural appropriation on the red carpet. Although some true believers may have expressed displeasure on social media about this year’s conflation of Church and high fashion, the Catholic Church itself is a partner in the Met’s exhibition, lending more than forty papal vestments from the Vatican (a first for the notoriously secretive archive). Cardinal Timothy Dolan agreed not only to sanction the gala but to attend it; the entire event had the feel of the officially anointed. And so many celebrities felt free to experiment, knowing that the only heresy they’d be convicted of would be crimes against fashion.
via: The New Yorker
Apple, Influence, and Ive
Sir Jonathan Ive, Chief Design Officer of Apple, Inc., is sitting across from me at a seamless white oak table. We’ve met a few times before, and I know he cares about watches. He must, right? But I’ve never actually asked him. So I do. And thank God, he does–he recounts a tale of buying an Omega Speedmaster Professional in the early ’90s. I exhale, because the hypothesis of this interview, at least in my mind (likely not in Apple’s), is that the watch industry and its all-too-vocal supporters have got it all wrong. Jony, the creator of what is, by at least one definition, the number one watch on Earth, is a friend, not a foe. But, like any great question of power and influence, it’s not so simple.
'Vogue was my escape hatch!' André Leon Talley on Warhol, Wintour and Weight Interventions
The documentary, The Gospel According to André, directed by Kate Novack, is a funny and often moving account not only of the fashion industry as seen through Talley’s eyes, but of a much broader American cultural history, reaching back from his days at Vogue to the Jim Crow south in which Talley grew up, and 70s bohemian New York, where he found a home in his early 20s. While Talley’s personal style – the capes, the kaftans, the exaggerated forms of speech – redefined the boundaries of black masculinity, his overall bearing insisted on something the dominant culture denied: that he be permitted to take up more space. “You can be aristocratic without having been born into an aristocratic family,” he says to the camera at one point, and the film is a study of both the scope and limitations of this kind of self-realisation.
via: The Guardian
The Biggest Trend in Fashion May Be Getting Rid of Your Fashion
Next week Cameron Silver — the founder of the Los Angeles vintage store Decades, famous male peacock, fashion director of H by Halston and its QVC face — will use his store and website, decadesinc.com, to sell off 400 pieces of his own wardrobe collected over the last 35 years. Soon after that, another 100 to 200 pieces will be offered on Grailed.
via: The New York Times