Weekend Reading: December 8, 2017
Weekend Reading: December 8, 2017
- Words Grailed Team
- Date December 08, 2017
Weekend Reading is a weekly rundown of our favorite stories from around the web.
Is there a story worth scoping out that we missed? Discuss this past week's headlines, and share your favorite stories from the week that was in our comments section below.
032c Magazine Became the Most Coveted Clothing Line for the Post-Vetements Generation
In the last few years, the way we consume fashion has completely changed. We live in a world of endless streetwear drops, complex reference games, and attention-snatching collaborations. In this new world, one of the main functions of the garment, be it a Supreme T-shirt or Palace jacket, is to be a sought-after symbol; a token of participation in “the game.” There are new rules to this new game. The current fashion landscape flattens everything from the highest of couture and the most egalitarian of streetwear into a single space. One of the most interesting propositions at the moment is from 032c. A cult, Berlin-based magazine that has been setting the cultural agenda for over a decade. Within the last two years its sideline apparel brand has grown from a few pieces of merch to a presentation in a Florentine Renaissance Palazzo at Pitti Uomo, scheduled for January. Run by husband and wife Maria and Joerg Koch from their headquarters at the converted brutalist church of St Agnes in Berlin, 032c clothing exposes the very nature of brand and its value in the contemporary fashion system.
Op-Ed: Fashion's Culture of Lechery
After The New York Times and The New Yorker reported in October the allegations against Harvey Weinstein (at least 57 women have now come forward and alleged sexual misconduct — even rape — by the Hollywood producer), the courage of these women has proved contagious, making the culture at large, at least for the moment, more receptive to their claims, and inclined to respond. On Tuesday of last week, for example, just over 24 hours after the first formal claims were leveled against him, Matt Lauer was fired by NBC. After the claims brought against Louis CK, Netflix and HBO distanced themselves from the comedian whose film “I Love You Daddy” will no longer be distributed. When several men came forward to allege sexual misconduct by Kevin Spacey, the actor was fired from “House of Cards” and dropped by his representatives. And, after years of claims against the fashion photographer Terry Richardson, Condé Nast, Hearst, Bulgari and Valentino have all sworn off working with him.
via: Business of Fashion
These Are the Guys Behind Some of the Coolest Fashion-Meets-Art Exhibitions in Recent Memory
The guys of New York Sunshine give new meaning to the term “multi-hyphenate.” What started out as John “Sunshine” Margaritis’s high school T-shirt brand has snowballed into a fully fledged creative force that blends fashion, art, construction, and retail, always with a focus on the immersive experience. A cursory scroll through New York Sunshine’s Instagram feed reveals a basketball hoop they set on fire, slashed sneakers, T-shirts submerged in neon cement, a handblown glass basketball turned fishbowl, and snaps of their installations for Virgil Abloh and Heron Preston. But it all really started with a T-shirt—and surfing.
New Vince Designer Patrik Ervell Is Done Being a Cult Favorite
Patrik Ervell lives in Los Angeles now, but it’s not hard to peg him for a New Yorker. He’s still dressed like the downtown New York designer he was for more than a decade, to start: black mock-neck shirt, black jeans, and suddenly-trendy black Salomon hiking sneakers. (I will take full credit for that. Full credit,” he says, laughing but not exactly joking.) And then there’s the commute. Back in September, Ervell was announced as the new men’s designer for Vince, the Los Angeles-based brand best known for its sweaters. Soon after, Ervell was on a plane; when we speak in Vince’s New York showroom in early November, he’s been working on his first collection, set to debut in January, for five weeks. Now, he tells me, he walks each morning to Vince’s Hollywood office—a good way to draw stares in Los Angeles. New York through and through."
See the Full, Laid-Back Lookbook for Isabel Marant's Debut Menswear Collection
Isabel Marant has always had a knack for creating an effortlessly cool French vibe with her clothes; and even if that vibe is a bit of an overdone trope at this point, she manages to make it feel new each season. Plus, so many of us still yearn to achieve it — and that yearning is not exclusive to women. That's why Marant finally designed a menswear collection for Spring 2018. Pieces from the collection debuted during her Paris Fashion Week show in September, which had a France-meets-Southern California sensibility and that aesthetic is strong in the menswear lookbook the brand sent out on Wednesday.
Jil Sander's New Designers on the Future of the Brand
Today, after changing hands multiple times, the Jil Sander brand — from which the founder departed for the third time in 2013 — is being rebooted by husband-and-wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier. Much has been made of the fact that one of the designers (Lucie) comes from a fabled Parisian couture house Dior, where she was interregnum creative director between Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri, while the other (Luke) is the founder of OAMC and the former head designer of celebrated New York streetwear label Supreme. But the duo downplay the contrast. “The thing is, on the outside, it seems we’re very different,” says Luke. “A lot of the time, we really pull from the same references and feelings. Our appreciation for things and design language is a lot more aligned than people would imagine. The process and scrutiny and level of detail and thought that goes into development is the same from Supreme to Dior.”
via: Business of Fashion
‘The President Stole Your Land’: Patagonia, REI blast Trump on national monument rollbacks
Anyone who visited Patagonia’s website on Monday night in search of a warm winter fleece or a pair of snow pants was in for a surprise. Replacing the usual shopping choices were giant white letters on a black background offering a stark message: “The President Stole Your Land.” The message continued in smaller letters: “In an illegal move, the president just reduced the size of Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments. This is the largest elimination of protected land in American history.” The page was referring to President Trump’s order Monday reducing the size of two national monuments in Utah by nearly 2 million acres combined.
via: The Washington Post
How Virgil Abloh Is Tapping Into Youth Culture And Democratising Fashion
What Abloh wants to do is to shatter the ivory tower exclusivity that often alienates people from fashion – and that is remarkably appealing to a group that, up until a couple of seasons ago, has been ignored by the higher echelons. After all, when he first entered into the industry, he was not welcomed with open arms: he was working with West, who was hardly taken seriously in the 2009 fashion industry, and the two of them got into about half of the Paris shows they turned up to. But, he explains,We’re currently coming out of an era where high-fashion brands are inspired by us, and we’re just consuming what is registered back to us. With Off-White I made a conscious decision that I would not just be a consumer; I wanted to trailblaze and have one of us at the end of a Parisian runway saying, 'hey, put us on the timeline.'"
The ‘Second-Hand Dad’ Look—Why Hiking Jackets Are Having a Moment
Fashion loves to find something thumpingly banal and declare that it’s “having a moment” and, right now, this season’s most in-demand menswear item is ... the dog-walking jacket. Welcome to the world of haute hiking wear: the kind of thing you keep stashed in the car boot, the sort of thing Theresa May wears to walk over the Dolomites, and which is – like one North Face Supreme X jacket – now fetching up to £4,500 on the resale market. It is a perfect storm of high, new fashion and serious technical wear.
via: The Guardian
The Supreme Family Tree
Ever since opening its doors in 1994, Supreme has become a global phenomenon with stores in Europe, the United States, and Japan. Through the years, employees and other people in its orbit have come and gone, sometimes leaving to start off ventures of their own. This expansive infographic breaks down Supreme’s progeny and the myriad of labels whose stories are intertwined with their own.