Weekend Reading: October 20, 2017
Weekend Reading: October 20, 2017
- Words Grailed Team
- Date October 20, 2017
Weekend Reading is a weekly rundown of our favorite stories from around the web.
Is there a story worth scoping out that we missed? Discuss this past week's headlines, and share your favorite stories from the week that was in our comments section below.
The Ultimate Eccentric Michèle Lamy: 'I Have No Idea What Fashion Is Now'
I have an exhausting optimism, Michèle Lamy laughs as she sips tea at the Rose Bakery at the top of concept store Dover Street Market in London. She's clutching a weighty mug with her ink-dipped fingers, each one stacked in multiple rings. Initially, Lamy is utterly enrapturing to behold: her teeth made of gold inset with diamonds, her lips painted purple-mocha, her thick French accent laced with the smoke of endless cigarettes and decades of storytelling, and her silhouette distorted by a heavy Rick Owens leather dress and sky-high gold wedges."
Dries Van Noten, Icon of Creative Freedom
In the country of Belgium, in the meadows outside Antwerp, in a garden stalky with delphiniums, the fashion designer Dries Van Noten is considering a rose. Van Noten, who is 59, is one of those rare people who actually resembles his photographs; not coincidentally, perhaps, he also has a face and a form that look like they might be easy to draw, a single pen line dragging down the page, an image blooming beneath it: He is slim but not skinny, tallish but not tall, graying but not gray, with a spare, symmetrical, planar face and small, dark eyes. His hair is neat, parted to one side and scraped back from his forehead, but the effect—like that of his white button-down shirt—feels less severe than, somehow, touching; one can see in him the echoes of the good Catholic schoolboy he once was.
via: T Magazine
Stray Rats, Tyler, The Creator & Hardcore: An Unlikely History
Meeting Julian Consuegra in the back of Scarr’s, the small neighborhood pizzeria nestled in New York’s Chinatown at the very bottom of Orchard Street, is to meet him on his own turf. Behind the register by the entrance of the shop a cashier dons a blue Stray Rats cap, made by the brand that Consuegra started when he was 22 years old. Further back, a bartender in a long-sleeve that Scarr’s made in collaboration with Stray Rats stands in front of a mirror plastered with the brand’s stickers. Past the workers at the parlor, a steady trickle of patrons wearing T-shirts, shorts, hats, and lanyards all made by Stray Rats come in and out of the shop. Almost everyone in Scarr’s, employees and customers alike, greet Consuegra, who is seated in a booth alone with sunglasses on and headphones in, vigorously bobbing his head.
Brents Sportswear Explains What It’s Like to Produce Clothing for Supreme
The company selected to produce Supreme’s quality, hard-wearing apparel was the family-owned independent clothing manufacturer Brent Sportswear Inc. Co-owned by cousins Aaron and Stephen, Brent Sportswear Inc. had access to the domestic mills that produced military fabric, an authenticity and quality that appealed to Jebbia when he was producing clothing for the unforgiving streets of New York.
The King of Cultivating Cool
Everything about Brian Phillips, president and founder of PR firm Black Frame, seems deliberate. Not calculated, per se, just … exacting. The cut of his Simon Miller jeans. The blunt trim of his blond mustache that connects to his meticulous beard. The primary colors of his office furniture, designed by Marc Hundley, Martino Gamper, and Alessandro Bava. Even the glint in his sky-blue eyes seems intent on drilling right through to the core of whatever he’s working on. He’s intense, and maybe a little intimidating.
via: The Cut
Nike’s Chief of Design Doodles All Day
In the latest installment of this series that goes inside the private working worlds of designers, John Hoke, the chief design officer of Nike, discusses how his dyslexia made him look at the world differently, why he doodles and how he manages 1,000 designers. The interview has been edited and condensed.
via: The New York Times
What’s Neo Yokio Under All That Swag?
Kaz Kaan, the foppish boy wonder at the center of Ezra Koenig's new Netflix animé show Neo Yokio, is a super-sensitive superhero. A kiss on the cheek gives him a nosebleed. He wrinkles his snub nose at a gratis glass of Château Lafite. A fond inscription from an ex-girlfriend on the back of his watch has him flinging it off the top of a building.Destroying a 1919 Cartier Tank is a bit…imprudent,
says his robo-butler, played very straight by Jude Law, with the patience of Stevens from The Remains of the Day.
Is Dior Repurposing Feminism for Profit?
Christian Dior’s s/s ’18 show in Paris opened with a model wearing a long sleeve Breton shirt emblazoned with the words ‘Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?’. The quote comes directly from Linda Nochlin’s 1971 essay about the limitations and difficulties that women who are artists face within society. (I would just like to mention that the second source of inspiration for Dior’s show came from the sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle- a woman – whose influence could be seen in the bright colours, stripes, broken mirrors and metallics that were used throughout the collection. Also, I very much appreciated the juxtaposition of this next to the opening outfit. Well done, Dior. But back to the t-shirt in question.)
Meet Virgil Abloh: The Toast of Paris Fashion Week and the Man Kanye West Keeps on Speed Dial
It is the eve of London Fashion Week and Virgil Abloh, founder of cult label Off-White, has just flown in from San Francisco — where he attended Apple’s iPhone X launch — making stops on the way in New York, Paris and Mexico. ‘That’s all in 40 hours,’ the peripatetic 37-year-old smiles, somehow looking as fresh as a daisy, kitted out in his uniform black graphic T-shirt, Supreme boxer shorts, black Levi’s Made & Crafted x Off-White jeans and Nike Air Presto x Virgil Abloh trainers. He’s here to launch the second phase of ‘The Ten’ collection’s Off Campus workshop event celebrating his blockbuster Nike collaboration, which deconstructs 10 of its most iconic trainers. The result has had sneaker freaks swooning, but it is far from Abloh’s only current concern.
via: The Evening Standard
Adidas Exec Mark King Discusses Major Expansion, Brand Growth, Scandal
The Adidas juggernaut continues to roll, even in the face of a national scandal. That was the dominant message from Mark King, president of the company’s North American operations, when he met with reporters this week. He said charges filed last week against two Adidas executives in a youth basketball bribery scandal are “serious allegations” and that Adidas is fully cooperating with federal investigators. And, he insisted, the inquiry will have no effect on the resurgence that allowed Adidas to overtake Nike's Jordan division in the U.S. sneaker market last month.
via: The Oregonian