Weekend Reading: July 14, 2017
Weekend Reading: July 14, 2017
- Words Grailed Team
- Date July 14, 2017
"Weekend Reading" is a weekly rundown of our favorite stories from around the web.
Who Wins When Fashion Gets Political?
"The print on the dress keeps going, over and over, in bathroom graffiti script at a can't-miss-it font size. Maybe the model wearing the dress felt the rage in that statement as she strutted down the runway during Fashion Week in New York last fall. Clearly the creators of the dress, from New York–based label R13, have some feelings about America's current president. Or maybe it was just a calculated moment of IRL hashtag activism. Fashion is supposed to be a reflection of its times, and shouting angrily into the void is very 2017."
In Conversation With Glenn Martens
"Nothing better than having a first impression debunked. Especially if that impression was construed through months of cyber-stalking an individual for a school project. Thus was the case for Glenn Martens, creative director of Paris-based label Y/Project, whose media persona seemed to revolve entirely around his ability to have fun. Articles will mention that he walked into his entrance exam at Antwerp with nothing but a few furniture sketches, that he’s now designing for the likes of Rihanna and Beyoncé, and most importantly, that his hair is platinum blond. An unquestionable link was made between his playful designs and his character. If he’s innovative, he must be rebellious. If he’s young, he must love to party. If his collections are streetwear inspired, it must be because he does nothing but roam the streets himself."
via: 1 Granary
Farfetch Founder José Neves Tells Wired How He Built the $1.5 Billion Fashion Platform
"José Neves, CEO and founder of Farfetch, launched his omni-channel e-commerce designer-fashion platform just before the crash of 2007. Amid tough economic times, it has built partnerships with more than 750 designers and boutiques, selling 1,500 brands to more than one million customers in 190 countries. In 2016, Farfetch generated $800 million (£640m) in gross sales - up 70 per cent on 2015. A funding round in May 2016 raised $110 million, led by investors Temasek, IDG Capital Partners and Eurazeo - joining existing investor Vitruvian Partners in valuing Farfetch at $1.5 billion. Before launching Farfetch, Neves created Platforme, a software firm for small fashion brands in 1996. The same year, he launched the Swear shoe brand, and in 2001, opened retail venture b Store in London. Here, he shares his knowledge."
The Head of Design at Ikea on “Sampling” Versus Stealing in Fashion
"Ever heard of sampling? It’s when a musician takes a portion of another musician’s song and mixes it into theirs. It’s legal only when the sampler receives the rights to the original track. This is a pretty simple concept and it’s one we don’t tend to make too big a deal of when it happens. Kanye West has become famous for it, Jay-Z is a master at it, and so are those like Eminem and the Beastie Boys, among many other hitmakers. Marcus Engman, the head of design at Ikea, thinks there are important lessons to be learned from the process of music sampling as far as design—in fashion and interiors—is concerned. 'This is our main inspiration for working creatively,' he says. 'You make something new out of something from the past, and to me, that’s not copying.' Engman thinks it’s 'fun' when Ikea’s logo and signature design elements are swept up into the fashion vortex, as they have been several times over in the last six months."
How We Made the Face
"I’d been editor of the NME for five years, but I was scarred by the experience of being the fulcrum between a maverick staff and a corporate structure. I began to think about a new idea – rock and pop music, with an underlying fashion element. Something that could sit in WH Smith as well as the ICA bookshop. Publisher Emap said to come back in six months, because they were launching a football weekly instead. I was peeved that the money they were making from one of my other ideas – Smash Hits – wasn’t being used for this. So I thought: could I possibly publish it myself? I had £3,500 of savings, and bought the paper: seven and a half tons of it from Finland. I remember thinking: will they just dump it at Harwich docks and I’ve got to get a van to go collect it? What have I done?"
via: The Guardian
Gucci's Homeware Line Is Everything We Want It To Be
"Landing in stores and online from September, the range is inspired by creative director Alessandro Michele's much celebrated fashion collections - bringing his signature bright, bold patterns and floral and animal motifs to teapots, furniture, cushions, crockery, wallpaper (in silk, vinyl and paper), silk screens and more. Candles and incense trays, costing around $190, will be the lower price point of the range, while at the other end of the spectrum the beautifully printed silk screens - featuring pineapple and pink and blue octopus designs - reach almost $30,000. The collection will not be given a dedicated space when it arrives in stores, instead being spread out and integrated with clothes and accessories. 'The idea is not to prescribe a particular decorative look, but to provide elements that allow for living spaces to be customised,' the house said."
How Menswear Designer Feng Chen Wang Is Building a Nomadic Global Brandt
"With so many budding talents out to make a name for themselves, the competition for emerging designers is tough. Which makes 2015 RCA Graduate Feng Chen Wang’s fast rise all the more impressive. After showing collections in New York, London and Shanghai and with fashion platforms V-Files, MAN and Fashion East, the designer today returns to the Big Apple for her SS18 show. Feng Chen Wang’s designs draw a line between conceptualism and minimalism. Her main focus is on technical outerwear, manipulating such fabrics to drastically alter the male silhouette – a welcome shake up within the realm of menswear. Combined with sportswear fabrics and colour blocking, her aesthetic feels both bold and modern."
Why Are American Designers Opting Out of New York Fashion Week?
"Joining Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, and Thom Browne, Joseph Altuzarra announced today that he’s swapping New York Fashion Week for Paris this September. Three’s a trend, but now there’s four. And it’s not just any four; it’s four of the best regarded, most influential labels on the calendar. New York has lost a good-size chunk of its new guard."
Should Lanvin Become ‘a French Michael Kors’?
"One designer exits, another enters. This week, the beleaguered French fashion house Lanvin announced that Olivier Lapidus would be its artistic director, following the departure of Bouchra Jarrar last week after only 16 months. Ms. Jarrar, of course, took the reins of the house after the controversial firing of Alber Elbaz, the beloved designer who had returned its brand to prominence over 14 years."
via: The New York Times
Diehard Supreme Fans Talk Louis Vuitton, Hype, Addiction, and Collaboration
"'If you want to show yourself to the world, you have to be on the centre stage. [For us], it’s just important to show that even though we’re aware we’re a Berlin-based label, we’re relevant on a global scale. We’re not just a local project.' Benjamin Alexander Huseby is talking about why GmbH, the brand that he began with designer Serhat Isik just under a year ago, decided to show their latest collection as part of Paris Men’s Fashion Week in June, rather than their hometown. It makes sense: if you want be noticed, go to Paris. Not that Huseby, Isik and their collaborators are having any trouble being noticed. It’s only their second collection and based on the strength of their first they have already received a nomination for the LVMH Prize, been listed in the Dazed 100 and, as of today, is sold at high fashion mecca, Dover Street Market London. Overwhelmed? Just a little. As Isik says, 'we didn’t expect to grow this much, and this fast… it all just happened.'"
via: Another Man