Weekend Reading: June 30, 2017
Weekend Reading: June 30, 2017
- Words Grailed Team
- Date June 30, 2017
"Weekend Reading" is a weekly rundown of our favorite stories from around the web.
An Oral History of Susan Cianciolo’s Run Collections—And of a Long Lost 1990s New York
"The folks at Patagonia don’t spend much time thinking about what’s cool. Instead, for over 40 years they’ve focused on making easygoing high-performance gear that leaves the tiniest footprint possible. Authenticity, thoughtful design, strong ethos—wait, isn’t that everything a brand needs to be cool in 2017? That’s why these days, you’re just as likely to see the iconic Monte Fitz Roy logo in downtown N.Y.C. as you are on West Coast beaches."
via: GQ Style
Mismanaged Merch: How Kylie and Kendall's Biggie Smalls T-shirt Snafu Illustrates A Larger Issue
"Here’s the thing about messing with the Notorious B.I.G.: he’s got a mother and a son and a helluva estate that is ready to come for anyone who doesn’t get permission first. It’s too bad that Kylie and Kendall Jenner didn’t know that until too late. The reality show stars eventually apologized for using an iconic image of Biggie Smalls (and other artists) on a vintage T-shirt being sold by their online store. The same T-shirts had the face of the star and then the face of one of the Jenners superimposed next to the star's likeness. (There was also a 2Pac shirt had a big yellow "KK" superimposed over the rapper's body.)"
Kenzo Takada on His Very Creative Life Before, During and After Founding Kenzo
"Kenzo Takada may have only stayed with his eponymous line until 1999, but the Japanese designer had shaken up the fashion industry so thoroughly by that time that we're still feeling his impact. From being one of ready-to-wear's early pioneers to essentially inventing the mass-market designer collaboration model that's so popular today, Takada changed the way that fashion does business."
The Return of the Return of the Male Jumpsuit
"'They are my new obsession. Probably because they are simple,' Miuccia Prada mused backstage after being asked about her spring/summer 18 jumpsuits. They might be her latest obsession but it's the second time she has turned her hand to them in a men's collection. 'I am so obsessed with jumpsuits, I can tell you the last time Prada showed jumpsuits — Spring 2008. Do you worry for me?,' Charlie Porter asked in his Financial Times show review. I'm old enough and Miuccia-magnetised enough to remember them in all their geometric glory too. The sight of their return to Prada's latest men's show provoked a flashback to an opinion piece Charlie wrote for the Guardian following their debut, Are you ready to jump? The jumpsuit is simple, practical and the height of fashion he proclaimed and duly declared it was time for men to get over their prejudices and, "Don the workwear that lets you live.' His argument rang true then and almost ten years on, still echoes true today."
Here’s Why Every Fashion Brand Needs an ‘It’ Statement Piece (and Memes)
"Alessandro Michele’s Gucci Cruise 2018 collection was a roaring success in terms of publicity. Forget the criticism that followed, forget the questionable ethics of appropriating the work of Dapper Dan (a designer that Gucci, among others, effectively put out of business in 1992), because the second that side-by-side picture comparing the two began to spread on Instagram and Twitter, Michele had achieved what he set out to do."
Kenzo’s All-Asian Show Made Me Feel I Had a Place in Fashion
"OK, let’s face it – fashion isn’t exactly the best at diverse representation. As an Asian woman working in media – and, within that, fashion too – I’m very often aware of how little I see my experience reflected in what surrounds me on a daily basis. From endless examples of Hollywood whitewashing Asian stories and characters, to the irony of Karlie Kloss, as opposed to an actual Japanese model, dressed as a geisha in what American Vogue plugged as a diverse issue, I’m unfortunately used to the industry I’ve always wanted (and worked hard) to be a part of getting this so wrong – if they even bother to tackle it at all. That’s why, though, when Kenzo’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim sent out an all-Asian cast onto their catwalk in Paris earlier this week, I couldn’t help but smile despite my cynical heart."
Nicola Formichetti: “There Will Be a Backlash”
"Yes. I mean, I love fashion but the fashion system is something that I really detest. It’s something I’m trying to go against because I feel like so many people in the industry are just slaves to the system. We have so many collections to make, so many products, products that people don’t need; it’s just all about sell, sell, sell. And that’s not why I wanted to be in fashion in the first place. More and more there’s this idea of just creating for money... Fashion for me was never like that. Before I started working in fashion I loved the fantasy, the dream, the positivity. I loved how fashion could make you stronger. I loved looking at beautiful images, I loved that beautiful clothes could move you. Today the fashion system is just boring."
via: The Talks
Is Thom Browne the Most Underestimated Designer in New York?
"Going into the headquarters of the designer Thom Browne, whose spring 2018 men’s wear collection will be unveiled in Paris on Sunday, is like falling down a rabbit hole. Not just because it is in the garment district of New York rather than the École des Beaux-Arts in the Sixth Arrondissement, but also because when you step off the elevator on the 15th floor of his building, you find yourself in front of a glass door without a sign or a logo but with a doorbell and the kind of white louvered shades you normally find in a dentist office or an accountancy firm."
via: The New York Times
Daddy Cool: Decoding Menswear’s Latest Muse
"'Young dads in the park with their kids at the weekend,' read the show notes at Balenciaga's spring/summer 18 suburban spectacle. Taking place in the Bois De Boulogne, on the western fringes of Paris, it showed exactly that: Dads, accessorised with real life children -- the models' actual flesh and blood FYI, as Demna just asked his usual suspects to bring along their kids for the ride, carrying them under their arms as if they're the new It bag. The clothes were typically Dad too. Most notably, there was an excellently awkward assemble of an oversized blazer worn with pulled-up denim jeans and brown leather loathers."
Steve Jobs’s Mock Turtleneck Gets a Second Life
"Of the many technological and artistic triumphs of the fashion designer Issey Miyake—from his patented pleating to his soulful sculptural forms—his most famous piece of work will end up being the black mock turtleneck indelibly associated with Apple co-founder Steve Jobs. The model was retired from production in 2011, after Jobs’s death, but in July, Issey Miyake Inc.—the innovative craftsman’s eponymous clothing brand—is releasing a $270 garment called the Semi-Dull T. It’s 60 percent polyester, 40 percent cotton, and guaranteed to inspire déjà vu."