Weekend Reading: June 2, 2017
Weekend Reading: June 2, 2017
- Words Grailed Team
- Date June 02, 2017
Weekend Reading is a weekly rundown of our favorite stories from around the web.
The Supreme Retirement Plan: How to Become a Millionaire by Flipping Streetwear
Yep. So we put up a billboard across the street from the Supreme store to get people who resell streetwear to start investing their money for retirement. We did it because we thought it'd be interesting: if you polled everyone in a Supreme store about what's on their minds, approximately zero percent would sayretirement,
and yet most of them are hustling hard to grow their money into more money. But we also did it because we respect the hustle of resellers—it's entrepreneurial, it's hard work (camping on a sidewalk sucks) and it's profitable. And the point of Wealthsimple is to help people turn the proceeds of their various hustles into real wealth.
No Tricks, Just Rick! A Candid Chat with Rick Owens on the Eve of His CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award
'Do you want to see my place? I’m going to give you a tour of my place. I’m in Venice right now. How does this work? You know I’ve never done this before. I FaceTime’d somebody before, but very briefly,' says Rick Owens, taking off his glasses and stepping onto a balcony beaming with sunlight, blue skies, and even bluer water. The designer and I are on his second-ever FaceTime call, and he’s broadcasting live from the deck of his flat in Venice, Italy. He takes his iPhone—and me—from the balcony to his bedroom, past a black stone bathroom—'You have to see the bathroom!' he exclaims—and through an office where he’s lined up the Spring 2018 menswear collection he’s going to be showing in Paris in June. It’s a spectacular sight, but what he really wants to talk about is my Brooklyn apartment and why riding the subway to work every day can take me anywhere from 20 minutes to two hours.
Vetements Is a No-Show—Demna Gvasalia Announces He’s Stepping Away From the Fashion Show System
In a year when the carousel of fashion shows is spinning at blur-speed, there’s breaking news that will stop the industry in its tracks today: Vetements is stepping off. 'We are not going to show in the classical system anymore,' Demna Gvasalia told Vogue. 'I got bored. I think it needs to enter a new chapter. Fashion shows are not the best tool. We did the show in the sex club, the restaurant, the church. We brought forward the season, we showed men’s and women’s together. It’s become repetitive and exhausting. We will do something when there’s the time and the need for it. It will be more like a surprise.'
Breaking down Balenciaga, era by influential era
Balenciaga is once again the Parisian brand to watch, thanks to Demna Gvasalia and his clever juxtapositions of haute couture and streetwear. But while watching his high fashion windbreakers whizz down the runway, not much thought is given to the designer who gave his name to the house. The V&A is changing this, with a retrospective dedicated to the intensely private Spanish founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, opening this weekend. It features his legendary archive, garments by the designers who have helmed the house since his death, plus an array of pieces inspired by his work. It’s staggeringly comprehensive, as it should be – not for nothing was Balenciaga called ‘The master of us all’ by Christian Dior himself. But how did Balenciaga make his name? And how has his legacy been reinterpreted?
via: Dazed Digital
JAPAN-ISM (vol. II) – CAV EMPT (1)
Cav Empt, or C.E. as it’s more commonly known, has become a unique approach to design and fashion. It blends sensibilities from Feltwell’s native England, and Japan, the country he’s called home for many years. The post-modern philosophy underpinning C.E.’s work is often translated in graphically distinct ways that embody the message and meaning so vital to the brand.
Supreme Copies: The Instagram That Attempts to Decode Supreme Clothing
The clothier Alexander Julian once quipped that imitation is the sincerest form of aggravation. In the years after he designed the inaugural uniforms, in 1988, for the Charlotte Hornets, his purple and teal—especially the teal—started popping up on everyone from the Detroit Pistons to the San Jose Sharks and the Jacksonville Jaguars. The streetwear label Supreme, founded six years after Julian’s colors débuted, loves both mischievous appropriation and nineties pop culture, so it’s not hard to see where it got the idea to drop a Hornets-inspired basketball jersey last year. That’s an easy reference to spot, but not every Supreme graphic and logo design has an origin that is so simple to place. Enter the Instagram account Supreme Copies, where a curious streetwear fan might go to find out why Supreme put intersecting screws on a T-shirt, or why the label’s name is aflame on a hat, or the story behind a jacket’s '666' patch.
via: The New Yorker
Michael Halpern and Stephen Galloway on the Fashion Industry
Michael Halpern is the rising designer drawing comparisons with the likes of Bob Mackie. And with good reason, for his work, at first glance, clearly recounts the sequin-encrusted days of disco, Studio 54 and Antonio Lopez. 'I’m aware that things can start to look really showgirl really quickly,' he told AnOther’s Olivia Singer of his designs earlier this year. And this creative self awareness has assured his collections, whilst clearly referential, are never merely a pastiche – and feel entirely fresh. A reincarnation of Mackie for a contemporary era, if you will.
via: Another Mag
Want to Sell Me Sportswear? Show Me an Athlete
Last week, Hailee Steinfeld was made 'brand ambassador' for fitness brand Mission. Just before that, Bella Hadid scored Nike’s new campaign. In it, she models the brand’s reissued Cortez sneakers, originally designed for runners in 1972 and embraced by athletes like Joan Benoit Samuelson, who won the gold medal at the first Olympic women's marathon (not to mention America’s favorite runner, Forrest Gump). What a great opportunity to sign a female track-and-field champ! Seriously though, is not a single female athlete available?
when two became one: inside pierpaolo piccioli's valentino
In a twist of beautiful irony, it's the day after Donald Trump has won the US election and Valentino is staging a massive speakeasy-themed event in Moscow, celebrating those liberal New York values most of Trump's supporters deplore. 'Congratulations on your new president! We're stronger together,' a Russian lady in a sweets store off the Red Square smiles, using that most sacred of Hillary Clinton slogans, and when the hotel bar plays Stranger in Moscow that evening, boy can you relate. He couldn't have planned it, but the genius of Pierpaolo Piccioli's Prohibition era soiree speaks political volumes in a country accused of rigging the election to Trump's advantage. 'There's something worrying about this reactionary world,' Pierpaolo muses, perched on a sofa in Valentino's newly opened Moscow store the day after the event. 'I don't like the intolerance, giving people boxes to stay in. I like the freedom of being whoever you are.' Beneath the sweeping silks and embroidered tulles that define his work, it's the kind of grand and often sensitive statements the 49-year-old designer has fearlessly been exercising since taking the helm at Valentino in 2008 alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri. Last summer she went to Dior, leaving Pierpaolo o solo mio in an applauded ready-to-wear collection for spring/summer 17 that tackled punk.
With Robert De Niro on board, Ermenegildo Zegna looks to the future with new artistic director
Alessandro Sartori, Ermenegildo Zegna’s new artistic director, is showing us around the label’s fabric mills in Trivero, northern Italy, where we see a beautiful fine navy wool fabric being created live for Robert De Niro, Zegna’s new campaign figure. His name is woven into the end of the fabric roll.