With the cult series back for round three on Showtime, 27 years since its original 1990 premier, Raf’s Twin Peaks retrospective reminds us not only of the show’s quintessential portrayal of '90s style, but of the sheer genius and influence of the designer’s muse and show's creator, David Lynch. Fashion aside, Lynch managed to capture the complete essence of such an influential decade in a matter of two television seasons, instilling in his viewers a vivid nostalgia for these simpler, distant times. For this sentimental reason, and for the show’s undeniable influence on high-fashion—Kenzo F/W 14, MSGM F/W 17, Creatures of the Wild S/S 17 and, of course, Simons’ aforementioned collection—Twin Peaks' resurgence has been highly anticipated by fans and casual followers alike.

The show’s enigmatic style, led by costume designer Sara Markowitz, has since inspired looks on designer runways for decades. The style, both quintessentially American and a modern play on film noir, allowed characters to be both inherently relatable, yet mysteriously perverse. Featuring slick suiting, wide shoulder trench coats and aggressive argyles, Markowitz's work managed to perfectly encapsulate the sort of tight-knit and shockingly foreign feelings common in isolated, small town America. Most famous for her work on Steven Spiellberg's A.I. and Bill & Ted's Excellent Adventure, whose style itself is severely underrated, Lynch's TV epic was her breakout effort and helped set a new standard for television wardrobe design.

Looking back on Twin Peaks’ original seasons, the show feels severely ahead of its time. Its cinematic wide-angle shots appear far too advanced for a '90s TV series, while the explorations of the dying American dream and the dark secrecies of life in this country are all too relevant in our present-day lives. Above all, the viewer gets lost and tangled in the dense, tumultuous layers of the twisted storyline, unraveling a new, unexpected approach to storytelling and cultural documentation. Lynch's complex narrative laid a foundation for a generation's worth of programming and, to his credit, paved the way for complex, heady dramas.

More than simply set the precedent for future television, Twin Peaks was one of the first instances of an award-winning film director opting for the small screen to intimately explore a specific set of characters. While these days it seems common for a Martin Scorsese to direct an episode of Boardwalk Empire, back when Lynch headed to TV following the critical success of his 1986 film Blue Velvet, the idea was unheard of.

Twin Peaks undeniably broke down television barriers, opening the door to new methods of filming and directing television while inspiring new genres of interest. From The X-Files to The Sopranos and even Gilmore Girls, it's fair to say that future small town dramas and long-form mystery series took more than a couple hints from the '90s cult favorite. Needless to say, the same trendsetting claims can be made about the show from a style perspective. Now regarded as a common source of inspiration for world-renowned designers, Twin Peaks set the stage for both high and low fashion decades ahead of its time.