Key Brands:
Rowing Blazers, Aimé Leon Dore, Dior, Thom Browne, Kiko Kostadinov, Ralph Lauren

Key Pieces:
Crewneck sweaters, Sweater Vests, Cardigans, Socks

How To Wear This Look:

Intarsia knits are nothing new, but—once only associated with ugly Christmas sweaters and grandparents—they’re poised for a cool comeback.

Intarsia refers to the technique of knitting single color areas that appear as if they’re fitting together like a puzzle. There’s only ever one active color in true intarsia knitting, which essentially means that different color yarns aren’t laid over one another, but rather are woven together where there are breaks in the color or design. The image is inside of the sweater, not placed on top of it.

Argyle sweaters and socks are probably the most famous examples of intarsia knits—barring perhaps the aforementioned Christmas sweaters. Intarsia has been mainstay of the prep aesthetic for a number of years. Ralph Lauren’s iconic Polo Bear sweaters, for example, are created using an intarsia technique. In recent years, a number of brands have elevated intarsia knits to a new, undeniably cool status—think Aimé Leon Dore’s sweaters from the last few seasons, or Dior’s upcoming collaborative knits (like those with Shawn Stussy).

Intarsia knits—and even socks, to an extent—are best thought of as statement pieces. They’re show-stopping sweaters that often showcase superior craftsmanship and a certain flair. But, that being said, it’s best to not lean on intarsia knits as a crutch. Sure, they do the job on their own, but they look much more sophisticated when layered under a chore coat or sport jacket and used to liven up an otherwise toned down outfit.

Key Brands:
18 East, Brain Dead, Wales Bonner, Telfar, Bode, Pyer Moss, A-Cold-Wall*, Reese Cooper

Key Pieces:
Anything and everything you can get your hands on.

How To Wear This Look:

In one word: proudly.

Once upon a time, luxury brands were the status symbols. By and large, those brands—the [Louis Vuittons]((https://www.grailed.com/designers/louis-vuitton), [Guccis]((https://www.grailed.com/designers/gucci), [Balenciagas]((https://www.grailed.com/designers/balenciaga) and [Celines]((https://www.grailed.com/designers/celine) of the world—are all owned by the same few conglomerates; each brand is backed by big bucks and directed by a rotating cast of the same designers or personalities, who bounce from one LVMH house to the next. While those brands are still prestigious, that reality has somewhat dampened their mystique and their cachet.

The real luxury nowadays—and status symbol—is found in those much-beloved independent brands that are able to take risks and push fashion forward.

There’s no denying that consumers have always had a soft spot for independent brands and designers. In recent years, that’s been augmented by a more mainstream embrace of supporting local, independent designers and brands, but also by a certain golden age of independence as brands that aren’t beholden to corporate shareholders eschew the safe, commercial options and take risks.

Wearing independent labels doesn’t just make a statement about being in the know, it’s a way to offer tangible support. And, aesthetically, these labels often have a trademark look, which lends itself to standing out, rather than the interchangeable ones found at the luxury houses (see Slimane, Hedi). Bode, for example, will always be immediately identifiable; Telfar’s shopping bag is arguably as iconic as those coming from Parisian and Milanese houses. The popularity of these brands traces back to being worn proudly. Again, we’re not saying that any of these brands are inherently names you’ve never, ever heard of; rather, it’s about supporting the exciting, small labels at a time when smaller brands could certainly use the boost—no matter what industry we’re talking about.

Word of mouth is the best marketing tool and embracing the fact that your chore coat is from Bode, your T-shirt from Brain Dead, your pants from A-Cold-Wall* and your bag from Telfar, rather than the usual luxury suspects, is the best way to wear them. As GQ pointed out in a recent editorial, the best way to show your taste level is to show support for and make a connection to the people making the pieces you love.

Key Brands:
Prada, Hermès, Levi’s, Drake’s

Key Pieces:
High-Waisted Pants, Straight Leg Jeans, Long Sleeve Shirts, Overshirts, (Good Quality) T-Shirts, Belts

How To Wear This Look:

When Look 18 from Prada’s Spring/Summer 2021 was sent down the runway, it was inevitable that we’d start hearing about how tucked in shirts were going to be all the rage. Which it is! From Prada to Hermès to Kim Jones’ Dior cummerbunds, the tuck has been omnipresent in the lead up to Spring 2021.

That’s not to say it’s new, though—nor is it reserved for luxury’s cream of the crop. What’s great about a trend like tucked in shirts is that, when you’re paying attention, you can see it pop up everywhere, from your favorite podcast, to a soccer pitch, to, yes, the runway.

Also great? How easy it is to try yourself. You could buy the Prada shirt and tie and tuck them into a pair of sweatpants; you could also buy a pair of high-waisted Drake’s trousers and wear them with a crisp white shirt and jacket; or, you could try this out with a trusted pair of Levi’s, a longer belt and a simple heavyweight T-shirt.

Once you’ve gotten comfortable with it, you can start to experiment—add an unbuttoned overshirt and try tucking it in, too, or opt for a half-tuck and the elusive laissez-faire attitude it exudes.

Key Brands:
Carhartt, Stone Island, South2 West8, Snow Peak, Engineered Garments,

Key Pieces:
Work Jackets, Fishermen Vests, Cargo Pants, Boots,

How To Wear This Look:

Somewhere between techwear and workwear, with a touch of gorpcore sprinkled in, sits what one might call utility wear. You can try and argue that it’s not a clearly defined aesthetic—or that it is. Regardless, you’ll quickly come to the conclusion that jackets or cargo pants with lots of pockets—a little too refined (or “fashion”) to be considered workwear, and too rough for techwear—and boots that aren’t quite hiking boots, but sure look like them, are everywhere.

It was somewhat inevitable that we’d end up here, as the broader menswear trends shift from gorpcore and workwear to more traditional prepwear. It’s likely to be amplified in the coming months, though, on the heels of the exceedingly cozy WFH wardrobe that people turned to throughout 2020. Sweats are great, but sometimes, you want to wear what GQ’s Noah Johnson called “hard clothes”. And what’s harder than a pair of canvas cargo pants, a safari jacket-cum-chore coat or New Balance and Snow Peak’s latest collaboration?

The key question to keep in mind is: Can I do something useful in these clothes? Because after a year of not doing much, you might as well be ready to tackle whatever comes your way.

Key Brands:
Beams Plus, Burberry, Marni, Mackintosh, Barbour

Key Pieces:
Driving Coat, Chesterfield Coat, Trench Coat, Mac Coat

How To Wear This Look

It might be a bit misleading to say that coats are trending, because you can always use one, regardless of the year or season. Even still, we’re living in a golden age of big coats and you’d be remiss to not take advantage, whether you opt for something timeless and sober, or something that’s a bit more unique. Sure, outerwear has been less necessary during the COVID-19 era, but—whether it’s to scoop up some household essentials or clear your head on a socially distant walk—at some point, you’ll need a reliable coat that suits the season. Spring brings about a chance to change things up—to put the parka away and flex your layering game with unbuttoned midweight coats.

Classics, like Burberry’s ubiquitous beige trench coat, or Mackintosh’s three-quarter length coats (fittingly referred to as “Mac” coats), are the kind of things that you ought to keep an eye out for, no matter the season. They’re easier to dress up and do the job when it comes to keeping you dry. You’ll routinely find high-quality vintage coats on the low, because there are so many of them on the market.

Speaking of on the market, those coming off a quarantine binge watch of the latest season of The Crown might be thinking of snagging a jacket from heritage British outfitter Barbour. Whether it’s the Beaufort (inspired by field hunting) or the Bedale (influenced with horse-riding-inspired touches), there’s no denying that a Barbour jacket is an generation-defying piece of outerwear; buying new is nice, but picking up one secondhand with a little wear gives you the opportunity to score a deal (with the chance to save some money by rewaxing the jacket yourself).

Other, funkier options, like Beams Plus’ now-classic patchwork driver coat or Marni’s slightly oversized and colorfully patterned wool coats, are statement-makers that can be worn for a year, then resold, or turned into the cornerstone of eclectic personal style. The wool driver coat, in particular, offers a not-too formal option, with soft raglan sleeves that can be worn with anything from a hoodie to a suit without looking out of shape.

With the weather still on the chillier side, fresh coat is a great way to set the tone for a great wardrobe.