One of the more unique, but underappreciated, brands of the ongoing cultural exchange between Japanese and American fashion is Daisuke Obana’s N.Hoolywood. While fellow Japanese designers like Junya Watanabe, Hiroki Nakamura of Visvim and Daiki Suzuki of Engineered Garments have long been recognized for their remixes of Americana staples, Obana has often flown under the radar due to his cerebral, conceptual approach to design. The approach leads him to reconceive his collection each season based on a new theme: “When I got the inspiration for this season’s line, I just got so into it. It will likely be the same next time. When I’ve done something, I’m finished with it. I move on [laughs],” Obana recounted to GQ back in 2012.

On occasion, this has landed the designer in hot water—in particular, for his Fall/Winter 2017 collection inspired by people across America who are homeless—it has also generated collections that are aesthetically and thematically inventive. So, while Obana’s designs may not always reflect the America that Americans are nostalgic for, they have been instrumental in pushing the boundaries of American and Japanese menswear.

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