Military uniforms have been a ubiquitous source of inspiration for menswear designers across the board. While runway designers may try to obscure the militaristic associations of these garments, a subset of Japanese streetwear labels have gone the opposite route, and made their militaristic influences the most prominent aspect of their clothing. The 90’s urahara scene in particular, embraced the M-65 and aviator jacket in a way few genres had prior, with designers like NIGO and WTAPS’ Tetsu Nishiyama frequenting Army surplus as often as vintage and thrift stores. Since the advent of Japanese streetwear, military garb has played a pivotal role in aesthetics and construction. Below, we explore how deep that connection runs.

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