If there’s one show that’s going to get the fashion press buzzing—regardless of what’s ultimately revealed on the runway—it’s Prada. The label’s Spring/Summer 2019 (though, we’d say it leaned more ‘spring’ than summer given the layering—more on that later) once again gave followers something to speak about. That revelation is frankly ‘old hat,’ especially when thinking of the work of Miuccia Prada.
Speaking of hats, the show opened with several ear-flap hats, which would be perfect for the fall, but—considering the season—are likely an exaggerated styling twist recalling visions of
Jamiroquai. That’s not to say it’s silly; when it comes to Prada, whatever it is, it always just works.
You could say the same thing for the abundance of turtleneck sweaters; certainly a weird choice for a Spring/Summer collection, but—noting Prada’s magic in making the off-kilter suddenly desirable—it has us wondering if we should be rotating turtlenecks as often as we do T-shirts (that is to say, perhaps all year round).
That’s no joke. Prada tucked a turtleneck into nearly all of her looks on the runway, worn as a standalone short sleeve (Look
1) or paired under polos, blazers or suede topcoats and tailoring (Looks 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7). With their myriad colors and pocket tee detailing, the only thing that was different from a logo tee is that there’s just a little extra fabric above the collar. If anything, Prada made a case for the silhouette’s conversion into spring staple, adding in several pastel and patterned renditions that injected an entire season’s worth of ‘flower power’ into the offering (Looks 8, 13 and 14). The floral turtlenecks would continue to pop up throughout the collection. The florals, psychedelic and ‘60s inspired, were just one of the nods to Danish designer Verner Panton.
Something else that felt like a throwback? Those short-shorts that—in world where 5-inch Patagonia baggies are sneaker summer essential (even if you don’t know it yet)—recalled visions of swim trunks for a sun-drenched Italian coastline set in the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. (Looks
21, 23, 33 and 40)Those might be better suited for the sporty-but-well-studied men of Call Me By Your Name, but their sexiness felt intelligent, experimental—even futuristic; conceptually it all meshed together in that ‘Prada’ sort-of-way.
From the bags on every model’s right shoulder to the
“rubber sheened” frilled shirting closing out the collection, Miuccia Prada managed to walk the line between retro and modern, something that’s been something of a brand hallmark for decades (Looks 47, 48 50 and 52).
Prada pointed out, “The goal was to construct, to define a youthful, contemporary elegance,”
reported . “They’re simple pieces, and I wanted them to make sense.” Simple pieces? Maybe, but forward-facing to be sure. Prada is one of the few that has the ability to take something old (or, put another way, out-of-date) and bring it into the conversation today. If nothing else, her collection of must-have head-to-toe looks for Spring/Summer 2019 is the best reminder that Prada is a must-see in the city of Milan. WWD