Born in Croatia, Damir Doma is a complex amalgamation of his European history. Constantly on the move, the designers evolving aesthetic is equally informed by each of his makeshift homes. Every time Doma has relocated–first from Croatia to Germany, then to Belgium, France and most recently Italy—his style has moved with him, creating one of the most complicated brands in fashion.

Doma's fashion journey began as child. He grew up in his mother's atelier and surrounded by tulles and sewing equipment, for a young Doma, there was never really another option. Following fashion school split between Munich and Berlin, Doma relocated to Antwerp in 2004 to pursue apprenticeships with his heroes—Raf Simons and Dirk Schönberger. While he idolized the Belgians, Doma’s personal ambitions could not be contained, and in 2007 the designer struck out on his own, setting up shop in Paris. His eponymous brand, Damir Doma, quickly made waves. Following a debut show as part of Paris Fashion Week: Men’s, accolades came rushing in, with comparisons to Rick Owens and Yohji Yamamoto and a flagship store on the prestigious rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré opening in quick succession. By 2010, Doma had launched a women’s line, as well as a men’s diffusion line, SILENT, with dozens of stockists worldwide.

Yet, in 2015, it was time for a change. Given the current state of the industry—and feeling pigeonholed by comparisons to household names—Doma relocated and reinvented the brand. Now based in Milan, Doma presents collections that are warm, no longer limited to his once dark color palette. Three years later, the designer is more content than ever. We spoke with Doma on everything from his humble beginnings to the big move and what the future holds for the new Damir Doma brand. Read our conversation below then shop the designer's personal archive of rare Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Margiela and more.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

Images courtesy of Guglielmo Profeti.