French label A.P.C. has built its name on its denim since the 1980s, becoming a symbol of raw denim’s cult-like status in the early 2010s. Even with European designer label lineage, A.P.C.’s wares have been staples in fans of both modern minimalism and Americana for years. Case in point, the Veste Jean Work Jacket.

Created with stiff, raw Japanese denim, the silhouette and details of the jacket closely mirror those found on Levi’s Type II jacket, with a few tweaks. While prototypical Levi’s Type II jackets have double flapped chest pockets and a button waist adjuster, A.P.C.’s version of the jacket varies ever-so-slightly, with its lack of buttons on the pocket flaps and its lack of the inspiration’s signature red tab branding. While OG Type II denim jackets from Levi’s are practically archival, those who are looking for the retro style but with a modern update are well served by A.P.C.’s version.

The historic house of Gucci has made incredible strides under creative director Alessandro Michele, becoming one of the most profitable brands in the contemporary fashion market. While Michele’s runway shows are now a must-watch staple of every fashion season, the success of Gucci has come down to the designer’s ability to translate his quirky aesthetic across all of Gucci’s product offerings. In other words, when it comes to Gucci, you know it the moment you see it.

While many of Michele’s Gucci pieces tap into his childlike blend of influences, it’s easily seen in the variety of denim jackets Gucci has put out over the last few years. While some feature patches or embroidery, many jackets boast some combination of both elements, making for one of the more “maximal” takes on the humble denim jacket. Whether it’s focused on florals, bearing a giant tiger head or big text branding, each iteration of denim jacket varies slightly by season. The key to success? Find one iteration you’re into and hunt for that; it’s Gucci after all, you can’t go wrong.

’90s minimalist icon Helmut Lang is more than just the mastermind behind an impressive archive of clothing, he’s been a well-referenced inspiration to major contemporary designers like Raf Simons and Virgil Abloh. While one of his most-referenced denim pieces is his signature Painter Jeans, we can’t overlook the Painted Stripe Denim Jacket.

The painted stripe motif is found in varying colors and quantities on different garments, this jacket earns its… well, stripes, in the form of three dark red lines on the back of the jacket. From the front, the cut and detailing is very similar to the Levi’s Type III “Trucker” jacket, including the V-shaped front panel stitching on either side, along with pointed chest pocket flaps. Originally debuting in Helmut Lang’s Fall/Winter 1996 collection, the jacket peaked in renewed popularity thanks to an appearance on the back of Raf Simons as he took his bows on the runway following Dior’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection. While some denim jackets are archival in that they epitomize an earlier era of American menswear, this Helmut Lang gem represents both Lang’s ability to reshape the perception of “regular,” everyday clothing and the modern interest in retro—or rather, “archival”—fashion.

Cult Japanese brand Kapital has become an insider favorite over the last couple years, something that’s been percolating since Kira Hirata—son of founder Toshikiyo Hirata—joined the brand in 2002. Originally founded in 1984 in Kojima, Kurashiki—known as the denim capital of Japan, hence, “Kapital”—the earliest forms of the brand prioritized traditional denim and denim manufacturing, as seen in signature products like Kapital’s Century Denim. Kapital Kountry, with a focus on colorful, patchwork and loud (some might say garish) materials, construction and silhouettes, helps shape another aspect of the Kapital universe; Kapital as a whole combines the traditional and the abstract to create pieces that are both classic and modern; retro and forward-thinking.

The Kapital Kountry Boro Denim Jacket is certainly less colorful than many other Kapital Kountry peices, but its patchworked construction mirrors much of the other (wackier) pieces that appear on the sublabel. Of course that doesn’t mean it is without Kapital’s nods to tradition. This denim jacket owes much to the history of “boro” denim, a distinctly Japanese technique of patching well-worn garments (usually with Sashiko stitching). Over time, a single garment may receive dozens of patches, resulting in a collaged effect on the garment, ultimately rendering the item visually unrecognizable from its original incarnation. While this Kapital Kountry jacket was likely designed with this patchwork approach in mind from inception, its weathered look makes it look pulled directly from the past… not to mention practically one-of-a-kind.

As noted throughout this list, there’s really no denim jacket on Earth that doesn’t owe something to Levi’s denim jackets. While there’s a good chance you’re already familiar with the San Franciscan brand (founded as far back as 1853) and its blue jeans, there’s just as much history to be dug up when it comes to Levi’s denim jackets.

There are three “types” of Levi’s denim jackets. Beginning with the Type I denim jacket created in the early 1900s, the earliest iteration ran until roughly the mid-1950s. Signified by its single front flap pocket and back cinch, this is the denim jacket that started it all. The Type II appeared in 1953, adding a second button-flap pocket to the chest and swapping out the back cinch with waist adjuster buttons on either side. The Type III “Trucker” jacket—the iteration most commonly seen today—appeared in the early 1960s. Easily identified by its pointed flap pockets and V-shaped front stitching, the Type III would see different slight tweaks over the decades, from the inclusion of hand pockets in the 1980s, to the alteration of the Levi’s logotype (“LEVI’S” to “Levi’s”) on the signature red tab during the early-1970s. As the most current style, we recommend the Type III if only for its modern shape (it tends to run slightly slimmer than earlier, boxier styles) and accessibility. If there’s one denim jacket you need to own on this list, it’s this one.

Part avant-garde innovator, part mysterious minimalist, Maison Margiela—helmed until 2009 by its founder Martin Margiela—remains as one of the most consistently thoughtful labels in the fashion industry. Far more than just a conceptual runway label, Maison Margiela expands into numerous numbered “lines,” each specializing in a different aspect or part of a holistic lifestyle. In this way, Margiela’s work literally does what the designer himself has done since early in his career—exist anonymously, but leave an impact.

This particular jacket hails from the “10” line—known as the collection for men, a companion to the runway collection for women, known as line “1”. Constructed out of several panels but not as dramatic as a boro denim jacket, the Margiela Patchwork Denim Jacket is identified by its four front pockets and off-color panel on the bottom left of the jacket. Similar to various other denim jackets, but slightly different—boasting Maison Margiela’s signature four white stitches—this denim jacket is subtle, but just different enough to draw a second look.

There’s plenty of accessible (in terms of price and availability) denim jackets that could make this list, including those from workwear brands like the much-beloved Carhartt. However, we want to use this opportunity to highlight a hard-wearing denim jacket form a more unconventional (but just as beloved) brand: Patagonia. Praised for both the quality of its technical outdoor apparel and its commitment to environmental sustainability, the Steel Forge Denim Jacket represents everything that makes Patagonia such a fan favorite.

Part of Patagonia’s small line of workwear, the Steel Forge Denim Jacket is made with American-grown organic cotton blended with Dyneema, resulting in material that is, as the brand puts it, “15 times stronger than steel at the same weight.” Boasting as much, if not more, pockets than practically any other denim jacket in the game, each detail is primed for a denim jacket’s true purpose: hard work. We could regale you with all the minute details that make this one of the most practical jackets we’ve ever seen—from the bi-swing back panels for extended range of motion, to the Cone Mills denim or the assembled-in-America stitching—but we think this jacket speaks for itself.

A master of avant-garde fashion, Rick Owens is more than just a designer; Owens has turned his namesake label into a full-on lifestyle, spanning everything from seasonal runway collections to furniture. While his label was founded in California in 1994, Rick Owens—the brand—has expanded significantly ever since, decamping to Paris and becoming one of the most referenced and beloved brands of the 2010s. His DRKSHDW subbrand is an offshoot of the concept-driven runway collection, often working to provide more accessible pieces and more accessible (though by no means “cheap”) pricing. In other words, if you’re looking to inject a little bit of Rick Owens into your wardrobe, DRKSHDW is where you should start.

Like many Rick Owens staples—like the Geobasket sneaker or Creatch cargo pant—garments may change in material or small details to fit in with the theme of each seasonal runway collection, but remain largely unchanged. The Worker Jacket is another example. While we love the “made in Japan” iteration, utilizing Japanese selvedge denim sewn together by proprietary “Dark Dust” thread, other versions of the jacket have been produced in calf leather. For a “dark fashion” take on this everyday staple, we can’t recommend Owens’ version enough.

Master of Americana and a pillar of American fashion, it’s inconceivable that Ralph Lauren wouldn’t have at least one denim jacket worth spotlighting. Of all the brands within the broader Ralph Lauren universe—from Polo to Purple Label—RRL stands apart as Lauren’s most overt nod to western wear and classic American staples. Sharing the same name as Lauren’s legendary Colorado ranch, the line famous for how it updates and pays homage to the clothing that’s built the fabric of American style—especially denim.

With the Lot 271 denim jacket, Ralph Lauren pays homage not just to Levi’s Type I, II and III jackets, but to its rival Lee. While most labels will make reference to Levi’s signatures like the Type I’s back cinch or the pointed chest pockets on the Type III, RRL’s is dramatically close to the original denim jacket produced by Lee’s. From the rounded, bag-like front pockets, to the four straight, vertical lines stitched from the pocket to the waistband—even the RRL branding on the right chest pocket matches the shape and colors of Lee’s own logo tab. An upgrade on a classic, with Lauren-level prestige? Leave it to Ralph.

When it comes to Japanese labels who epitomize the nation’s history of reviving (see: recreating and improving) Americana, the first brand that comes to mind is Visvim. From the mind of Hiroki Nakamura, very few designers manage to blend Japan’s historical commitment to craft with classic American design with quite the same quality and attention to detail. Naturally, Visvim has a storied reputation in the denim world, earning fans in the form of Eric Clapton and John Mayer. Of course, it’s reproductions of classic jean styles goes far beyond the Levi’s 501—it includes the equally iconic Levi’s denim jacket series.

Virtually identical to the Levi’s Type II denim jacket—from the double chest pockets to the bar stitching around the placket and button shape—this is one of the best options available to those interested in buying an archival Levi’s jacket, but are unable to source one (or unwilling to pay an archival price that could easily stretch into the thousands of dollars; no judgement, we get it). The signature deerskin patch finishes off this made in Japan classic.

While you might assume given its other offerings that Visvim makes the best Americana replica denim jacket on this list, you would be doing yourself a disservice if you didn’t check out Neighborhood’s flagship Stockman jacket. A seasonal staple, the Stockman trucker has been a part of the Neighborhood lineup for years, available in various washes and often specialty fabrics ranging from microsuede to leather and even velvet. The label’s take on the iconic Levi’s Type III, the Stockman boasts hardware, details and a fit eerily reminiscent of the sort of vintage Levi’s denim jackets the collectors lust after—and for good reason.

Brand founder Shinsuke Takizawa is a motorcycle enthusiast and vintage Americana fiend obsessed with recreating the Americana riding nostalgia he is personally obsessed with, hence the near perfect dimensions and details of the Stockman. While many menswear fans swear by Visvim’s 101, the Stockman is less hyped, less common and arguably a greater jacket, particularly given the crazy washes and finishes that are available, the “Savage” series in particular.

Though young L.A.-based designer Reese Cooper may not boast the history of others on this list, his made-in-America menswear is just as impressive. Focusing on nature, the outdoors and the intersection between form and function, the designer’s REI-meets-vintage Americana aesthetic is quickly becoming one of the most closely watched emerging talents in the industry. Though best known for its utilitarian outerwear, the brand’s denim program is equally strong, and Reese Cooper’s distressed denim jacket is one of the most interesting takes on the style in recent memory.

Famously eco-conscious, the young designer employs a patented waterless process to “wash” the indigo, creating unique patterns that are lust worthy despite their minimal carbon footprint. With a cropped, wide fit, unexpected linings, hidden pockets and the Reese Cooper signature hardware, this is one of our favorite denim jackets of the moment. While Cooper is not quite yet a household name, after a series of accolades—including a CFDA award and Paris fashion week debut—and undeniably impressive product, he soon will be. Hop on board.

When it comes to vintage trucker jackets, Levi’s is clearly the number one name in the game—at least that’s what you might assume. In reality, fellow American heritage brand Lee has been in the game nearly as long, and its Rider and blanket-line Storm Rider are both equally solid options.

Though founded 36 years after its San Francisco-based rival (1889 as opposed to 1853), the Kansas based company possesses an equally rich history, filled with tales of hard-working ranch hands and rodeo stars. While Levi’s was first to the punch, Lee’s first denim jacket was arguably more attractive. Unlike the Levi’s Type I, the Lee 101J was a slimmed down cut favored by wranglers and bucking bronco riders, and quickly became a fashion icon. Initially unveiled in 1949, the jacket competed on near equal footing with its West Coast rival for nearly 40 years, and today those vintage pieces are just as sought after. Of course, Lee—now owned by VF Corporation offshoot Kontoor—still makes the 101J and 101LJ (blanket-lined version), those vintage pieces worn by ranch hands in the ’70s are the ones worth hunting for.

Yes, we know we already featured a Kapital denim jacket on this list, but given the brand’s continued popularity—and how hyped this jacket is—it felt a pity to not include another. Each season, Kapital releases a number of “bones” pieces, with skeleton bones appearing on their exterior in numerous ways ranging from prints and sequins to embroidery and patches. Most recently, those beloved bones made their way onto shorts, jeans and a denim jacket, and considering Kapital made its name in denim, you can bet they flew off shelves.

Utilizing Kapital’s signature denim jacket (which itself is already a great buy), the company adds leather bones patches on each arm and an entire spinal cord with exposed ribs on the back. For those looking to make a statement—and willing to spend some coin—you can spot this one from a mile away.

Founder Jerry Lorenzo defines Fear of God as a new form of American luxury, where tailoring, cotton basics and denim are all of equal importance. That said, considering denim is quintessentially American and the label prides itself on its domestic nature, you can bet the designer pays extra attention to that segment. Appearing in every collection since at least his breakout third season, the Fear of God denim trucker is now a core part of the label’s offering. Virtually unchanged season after season, Lorenzo offers a wide, cropped and washed-out trucker reminiscent of the kind grunge kids and burnouts wore in the ’90s—one of the label’s enduring reference points.

With raglan sleeves, aged hardware and ultra-heavyweight denim, the Fear of God trucker is closer to a proper cold weather coat than a jacket (barring the cropped cut), and when paired with a flannel and some trademark sweats or trousers, embodies the sense of casual American luxury the label aims for.